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Mumbai Solo Female Traveler at the Colaba Sassoon Fish Dock Market + More Shopping + Indian Street Food

A boisterous, all-male youth group partied until the wee hours of the night—the staff apologized, “They’re a school group. Punjabis, you know.” So, this Mumbai solo female traveler traded her divey, allegedly quiet hotel room in the Fort area for a dorm room in Colaba—I arrived in time for the 8 am checkout to snag a bed. I planned for a treat and a lodging upgrade in Mumbai, but everything was booked solid for New Year’s Eve—so after a little more than a month on the road, I landed in my first backpackers’ hostel. The beginning of clean, simple, and easy company of the wandering foreigners, the lost and rumpled. Rupees did not go very far in Mumbai.

Boats to Elephanta Island (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

Fish Market at Sassoon Dock (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

My goal was to get to the eastern coast of Tamil Nadu in time for New Year’s Eve, but it was not meant to be. There are a ton of Indian and foreign tourists on the road and I was destined to have the absolute opposite of a quiet holiday. Oh well, more time for eating and meandering…

This part of Mumbai is surrounded by water, Mumbai Harbor on one side and the Arabian Sea on the other. I spent the morning wandering the Sassoon Dock and the causeway, wandering the intense fish market and environs. The Koli fishermen had just finished unloading their boats and sorting their daily catch. The market was in full swing, an assortment of fresh fish, just out of the sea, bombil fish sun-dried on racks, and so many shrimp (the bombil fish is used to make Bombai duck). All classes of women were shopping the dock-side market, including women arriving in private cars and taxis. Everyone carted egalitarian plastic buckets for their purchases. Interspersed with the shopping scene were some very satisfied cats and more flower garland makers than usual. Outside the market, an elderly woman did a brink business selling bundles of grass for a few tethered cows.

More consumer activity at the bazaars north of the Fort and Chor Bazaar and the markets around Mutton Street—I was not buying, but scouting shopping opportunities for the way north and starting to check out the Mumbai street food options. Then my first Fab India, a small chain of Indian, ready-made clothing and housewares. I wished I had arrived with an empty backpack and did my shopping at Fab India! I tried (without success) to find the 1884 Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue, one of the two Mumbai synagogues built by the Sassoon family. I rewarded my attempts with some vada pav, a Mumbai street food staple, and more kulfi.

Markets in Mumbai (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

Midnight approached with blaring American music—footloose! Everyone cut footloose!—and pyrotechnics and explosions, what sounded like a

Colaba (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

war zone. I was hoping for a peaceful and more settled new year.

2013 May 20 | Categories: India--Maharashtra, Maharashtra--Mumbai, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Chor Bazaar, City, Colaba, Consumerism, Fab India, Fish market, Fort Area, Fort Bazaar, Holiday, Hostel, Independent travel for women, India, Indian street food, Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue, Koli fishermen, Mumbai fish market, Mumbai Harbor, Mumbai shopping, Mumbai waterfront, Mutton Street Bazaar, New Years Eve, Sassoon Dock, Shopping, Solo female travel, Women | Leave A Comment »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Pista Kulfi Recipe (Pistachio Indian Ice Cream)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Pista Kulfi Recipe

Rabri is a thick, sweet milk mixture which serves as the base for the Indian street food recipe, pista kulfi. Rabri is a wonderful dessert on its own, and can be used as sauce over poached, stewed, or grilled fruit. The dense and creamy Indian ice cream, kulfi, and rabri are both scrumptious over mangoes and pineapple—really any fruit.

Silky, refreshing, nutty kulfi is frozen in molds and served on a stick, or frozen in small, earthen molds. You can also freeze the sweet milk mixture in a bowl and serve it on cones, or freeze it in small souffle molds. An ice cream maker is not necessary, but you can use one if you have it.

Kulfi is a popular item among Indian street food vendors and is a particular favorite at Mumbai’s Chaupati (or Chowpatty) Beach.

There was a lot of city out there—and sometimes a gal needs an ice cream cone.

Yield: 4 servings

Equipment:

Wide-bottomed saucepan or skillet

Kulfi molds or souffle cups (optional). Alternate: small mixing bowl

Ice cream maker (optional)

Plastic wrap

Ingredients:

4 cups (1 liter) whole milk

1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) ground green cardamon seeds

1 tablespoon (45 milliliters) rose water (optional)

4 tablespoons (60 grams) sugar

1/4 cup (30 grams) raw, unsalted pistachios, blanched and coursely chopped

Procedure:

Pour the milk into a wide-bottomed sauce pan. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer, stirring constantly.
Add the ground cardamon seeds and rose water to the milk, and stir to combine.
Simmer on low heat until reduced by half (about 45 minutes). If a film skin forms on top of the milk, stir it into the simmering milk.
Add the sugar and pistachios to the milk mixture, and stir to combine.
Pour the reduced milk into traditional kulfi molds, souffle cups, or even a bowl. Cover the souffle cups or bowl with plastic wrap and freeze until thick (about 8 hours). You can use an ice cream maker if you have have one—this will speed the freezing process.
Remove the kulfi from the freezer about 10-15 minutes before serving to let it soften slightly. If you used a bowl, you may have to use a knife dipped in hot water to loosen the sides.
Serve—and enjoy!—immediately.

2013 May 8 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Chaat recipe, Dairy recipe, Ice cream, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Kulfi recipe, Photographs, Pistachios, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 1 Comment »

Bright Lights, Big City, Cafés, Guns, and Bollywood: Mumbai

Mumbai was unlike anyplace else I visited in India—such a different vibe than Delhi! Delhi was rooted, historical, the seat of the Mughal Empire. In contrast, Mumbai is a major financial center and the movie capital of the world, the center of the Bollywood film industry. It is reported that 14 million Indians go to the movies each day to see one of the 800 films produced each year. Evidence of the British Raj (Sanskrit for reign) is everywhere, in the downtown city layout and architecture. It is a vibrant, world-class, cosmopolitan metropolis with omnipresent poverty, even in the affluent areas, a mother rocking her baby in a craddle on a street, all their family possessions around them, a shack next to the movie cinema and café. It was my first big city since I had visited since Delhi or Jodhphur in Rajasthan. Quite frankly, I was getting used to seeing some night skies and occasionally hearing the wind in the trees—well, at least in Kanha National Park.

Pedestrians near the Gateway to India (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

Gateway to India (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

Pedestrians near the Taj Mahal Palace, near the Gateway to India (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

Graffiti outside the Taj Mahal Palace, near the Gateway to India (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India)

Gateway to India (Mumbai, Maharashtra, India). I hoped to get picked up as an Bollywood extra, but it did not happen : )

I had a bit of culture shock—there were so many things I had not seen for so long—mass consumerism (including gelato and chocolate shops), sleeveless tops (and women in sleeveless tops!) , women sitting alone in cafés (with Wi-Fi laptops!), women smoking in cafés, espresso, sweeties out holding hands (usually no PDA here), gun shops (?!), and Christmas trees (albeit in the foreign ghetto of Colaba and downtown Fort area). The ocean—albeit a polluted one—made me a little homesick for New England.

Lonely Planet’s description of Mumbai sums it up: measure out one part Hollywood; six parts traffic; a bunch of power-rich moguls; stir in half a dozen colonial relics (use big ones); pour in six heaped cups of poverty; and a smattering of swish bars and restaurants (don’t skimp on quality here for best results); equal parts of mayhem and order; as many ancient bazaars as you have lying around; a handful of Hinduism; a dash of Islam; fold in your mixture with equal parts India; throw it all in a blender on high (adding generous helpings of pollution to taste) and presto: Mumbai.

I spent the day wandering near Fort area, near the University of Mumbai, medans with cricket, and popped into a mid-19th century private library, the J. N. Petit Institute—complete with a private tour from the director, when he found out I was a librarian in a past life. I was too embarrassed to admit I confused it with the Sassoon Library, where I hoped to do some reading and rest.

Apparently those adorable Premier Padmini taxis (see below) are being phased out.

Premier Padmini Taxis in Colaba Traffic (Mumbai, Maharashrata, India)

Cricket Game (Delhi, Maharashtra, India)

2013 May 6 | Categories: India--Maharashtra, Maharashtra--Mumbai, Travel--India | Tags: Architecture, Bollywood, British Raj, Cafes, City, Colaba, Consumerism, Cricket, Culture shock, David Sassoon Library, Film industry, Fort Area, Gateway to India, Independent travel for women, India, J. N. Petit Institute, Movie industry, Poverty, Premier Padmini taxi, Slums, Solo female travel, University of Mumbai, Women | Leave A Comment »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Kachori Recipe (Deep Fried, Stuffed Potato Patties)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Kachori Recipe

Kachoris are typically eaten for breakfast, snack (tiffin), or street food. Kachoris are a common Indian street food recipe, but they are also frequently served at weddings, festivals, and holidays. I enjoyed my first aloo kachori at the Jalgaon train station on the way to Ajanta Caves. Kachoris can be made with different types of vegetables, but aloo kachori recipe is made with potatoes.

A wok (kadhai) is helpful for frying, or you can also use a small, narrow saucepan, which requires less oil. If you use vegetable oil, select one with a high smoke point; peanut, canola, grapeseed, corn, and sunflower oil are all good choices. Always buy cold pressed and USDA-certified organic oil (if you live in the United States) to avoid GMOs.

Be sure to wear gloves when chopping the chili peppers, and do not touch your eyes after chopping the peppers! Thoroughly wash the cutting board and knife after handling the peppers.

Filled aloo kachoris can also be stored in the freezer. Freeze completed kachoris on a sheet pan and then transfer to an airtight container in the freezer. You can cook them while they are frozen—like most frozen foods, this prevents the pastry from absorbing oil. Well-wrapped, refrigerated dough can be stored for up to 2 days—just be sure to bring them to room temperature first.

Enjoy this aloo kachori Indian street food recipe with tamarind chutney, yogurt, or tomato chutney—or even tomato ketchup in a pinch

Yield:

6 servings (3 kachoris per person)

Equipment:

Plastic wrap

Clean dish towel

Potato masher (optional)

Rolling pin

Candy thermometer

Slotted spoon

Tongs

Newspaper or paper towels

Wok (kadhai) (optional)

Dough Ingredients:

3 cups (350 grams) unbleached white flour

1 teaspoon (4 grams) salt

6 tablespoons (90 milliliters) room temperature ghee or butter

2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) plain yogurt

7 tablespoons (100 milliliters) ice water

Dough Procedure:

Combine the flour and salt in a medium size bowl and stir until well-combined.
Add the room temperature ghee or butter to the flour, using your fingers to combine the butter with the flour. The dough should resemble course breadcrumbs.
Add the yogurt and part of the chilled water, and knead to form a smooth, kneadable dough. Knead the dough on a clean surface until it becomes soft and pliable (about 5 minutes).
Roll the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and set aside for a half hour.

Filling Ingredients:

3/4 pounds potatoes (300 grams), peeled and cubed

1 tablespoon ghee or butter

2 green chilis, seeded and finely minced

1/2 tablespoon (8 grams) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 teaspoons (8 grams) dried coriander

1 teaspoon (3 grams) ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) ground fennel seed

1 teaspoon (3 grams) garam masala

1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) turmeric

1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt (4 grams) salt

Approximately 6 cups (1.5 liters) vegetable oil for frying

Filling Procedure:

Put potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are soft (about 7-10 minutes).
Drain and mash potatoes with a fork or potato masher. Set aside until cool.
Melt the ghee or butter in a skillet and cook the green chili, ginger, and garlic until slightly soft (about 1-2 minutes). Add the corinader, cumin, fennel, garam masala, and turmeric and cook for 1-2 minutes.
Add the cooked spice mixture, lemon juice, and salt to the potato mixture and still until well combined.
Divide the dough into 18 balls and flatten each ball into a patty about 3 inches (7 centimeters) in diameter. Cover with a slightly damp towel and let rest.
Put (about how much) filling in the center of a dough patty. Rim the edge of the dough circle with some water and fold the dough in half, pressing the seams together until well sealed. Cover with a slightly damp towel while you finish shaping and stuffing the other kachoris.
Heat the vegetable oil in a kadhai (wok) or saucepan to 375 degrees F/190 degrees C.
Gently place several kachori in the hot oil and deep fry until golden brown.
Remove kachoris with a slotted spoon or tongs, and drain on kitchen towels, paper towels, or newspaper.
Serve immediately or hold for 15-45 minutes in a warm oven (200 degrees F/100 degrees C).

2013 May 2 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Aloo kachori recipe, Chaat recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | Leave A Comment »

Ajanta and Ellora Caves (Maharashtra, India)

And we are back—apologies for the unanticipated blog sabbatical.

Train Ride to Jalgaon (Maharashtra, India)

One last cup of chai at the downtown dhaba–I loved “downtown” Khatia!—and then to the bus stop. When I boarded the bus, I was pleasantly surprised to see the same conductor and his young luggage assistant. And then a chorus of, “Lisa!” Both Kolkatta families were on their way home and the children were all smiles—they had all seen a tiger. I observed over and over again how well behaved children are here—none of the sugar-crazed, hysterical rampage like American children! All the children on the bus rides sit quietly, patiently, staring ahead with quiet, patient acceptance for the road ahead.

It was about one month in and a transformation started to happen—the little things have stopped flustering me and perhaps I was starting to acquire the same acceptance, acceptance for what I can change and what I cannot change. My 11:55 pm train to Jalgaon became a 3 am morning train, but what is called IST (Indian Stretchable Time) is now on my schedule (or I adapted my “schedule”?) Even the bathrooms at train stations were starting to seem normal (albeit I must confess, I was a pro at not touching solid surfaces).

A pleasant, 30-something couple (yet another couple who quite their jobs to travel) kept me company on the early morning, 50-kilometer bus ride from Jalgaon to the the Buddhist Ajanta Caves, nestled in the Sahyadri Hills and cut into volcanic lava flow. It was a rather foreboding landscape, lots of craggy lava rocks and buttes—and strangely enough, not unlike my childhood home in northern California.

Ajanta Caves (Maharashtra, India)

This UNESCO World Heritage site has 29 caves, which were carved beginning about 200 BCE. Twenty four of the caves were ancient Buddhist monasteries and five were temples, and were thought to house 200 monks and artisans. The inhabitants abandoned the caves in 650 AD, when they moved to Ellora (and my next stop). The site was covered in jungle and was only rediscovered in 1819 by a British officer on a hunting party. Due to the late rediscovery, the tempera paintings are remarkably well preserved. The paints were made from local minerals, with the exception of the blue, which was made from a Central Asian lapis lazuli, typically from Iran or Afghanistan. Flash photography was prohibited (to protect the paintings), so please pardon the quality of the photos.

Ajanta Caves (Maharashtra, India)

I gave a little involuntarily gasp when I entered the first cave, when I saw the first Buddha—beyond amazing. The caves seemed seem so planned and pre-meditated, yet they were chiseled out of the volcanic rock from top to bottom, front to back, over many, many years. Some of the caves are chaityas (shrines or temples), with the most amazingly graceful Buddhas. Most of the caves are viharas (Buddhist monasteries), typically with a shrine at one end. Some of the viharas had small dormitory rooms carved into the side walls, some with built-in stone beds!

I might have gained acceptance, but I still had not learned to slow down, and caught the late afternoon—and horribly crowded—local bus for the 2-1/2 hour ride to Aurangabad. Overnight, then a one-hour bus ride in the morning to the Ellora Cave, 30 kilometers away (another UNESCO World Heritage site), a collection of 34 monasteries and temples carved into basalt cliffs.

Many Faces of Buddha, Ajanta Caves (Maharashtra, India)

Area around Ajanta Caves (Maharashtra, India)

Generations of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain monks carved the caves over five centuries ago, between 600-1000 AD, a testament to the spirit of tolerance. The terrain was less steep than Ellora, so many of the temples had elaborate courtyards in front of the shrines. The most spectacular one, Kailasa Temple, was built by King Krishna 1 of the Rashtrakuta dynasty in 760 AD.The temple is supposed to represent Shiva’s home in the Himalaya and has a fair amount of Shiva linga, phallic symbols and auspicious symbol of Shiva (Shiva is the creator and destroyer of the universe and is worshipped in the form of a lingam. OK, that explains a thing or two). The temple covers twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens and is almost twice as high as the Parthenon. I toured amidst a ton of school groups and I was recruited from a few photos. Spectacular in the that monumental monument sort of way.

I hiked up to the Jain temples, a pleasantly quiet walk—everyone else seemed to drive and it was one of those rare moments when I felt alone in India. I caught a ride down with an older Indian couple—their son-in-law was working in Connecticut. Lunch at a local dhaba, local bus to Aurangabad, and then a little time to kill before a night train to Mumbai.

What is up with the Tmobile ring tone? It is everywhere, and seems to be on ever cell phone in Maharashtra!

Kailasa Temple, Ellora Caves (Maharashtra, India)

Ellora Caves (Maharashtra, India)

Kailasa Temple, Ellora Caves (Maharashtra, India)

2013 April 25 | Categories: India--Maharashtra, Maharashtra--Ajanta Caves, Maharashtra--Ellora Caves, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Buddha, Buddhism, Cave, Hindu religion, Hinduism, Independent travel for women, India, Indian Railways, Indian train travel, Indian trains, Jain religion, Jainism, Kailasa Temple, Linga, Sacred, Shiva, Siddhartha Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, Solo female travel, Temple | 2 Comments »

Kanha National Park and Tigers, Oh My! in Madhya Pradesh, India

Tiger in Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh, India)

Catching local buses was still an adventure, particularly with my limited Hindi—to be honest, I was never completely sure I was going the right direction or would end up at the desired destination. But then the marigolds and incense were placed by the dashboard deity and you knew everything would be a-ok—or to hope for the best. Endless vendors paraded down the pre-departure aisle, selling everything from nuts, wallets, combs, and pills for strength—I think the herbal equivalent of Viagra—followed by a long, monotonous recitation about the supposed benefits and quality products. Then the bus coasted backwards to pop it into gear. We were on our way to Kanha National Park, where I hoped to see some wildlife and—I hoped—a tiger.

Inside Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh, India)

The bus was packed to the gills after Mandla—so many people! Some bags fell off the roof rack and landed on a couple people, which caused much amusement.

I shared a seat with a ten-year-old boy who I nicknamed Mr. Factoid. He spoke superb English and he was a curious little fellow—his parents said he loved to read, and it showed. He recited all sorts of facts to me: the length of anaconda snakes, how India was the biggest producer of sugar cane (but second in production of sugar after Cuba), and what type of scorpions were in the park. The facts were simply endless. He was terribly disappointed that I did not know the national animal or national flower of my adopted country, Canada, and that my city (I adopted Vancouver) was without a city deity. The poor little fellow had never been on such a crowded bus, and was shocked when the older woman sitting on the handrail in front of us scrunched into his seat, making a two seater into a three seater. But he called me auntie, which took the edge off two hours recitation of facts.

I arrived in Kanha National Park just as it was getting dark. Read the rest of this page »

My hostel—at the time, it was the only place to stay right in the park—was filled with Indian families, and I shared my room with a lovely family from Kolkatta. An amazing value, too, just 450 rupees (about $10 USD), which included a family-style dinner in the park canteen.

Some lovely twenty-something boys from Mumbai kindly took me under their wing—we ate dinner together in the canteen and later went for a night hike in the woods. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to walk very far, as there was a tiger attack just a few weeks ago. I could tell by their voices that they were quite serious about that. They had lived in Mumbai all their lives, and could not believe how bright the moon was and how many stars there were, even with the moon. They traveled together every winter, but this was one of their last holiday trips, as the chattiest chap was scheduled for marriage next year.

Early Morning in Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh, India)

Spotted Deer in Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh, India)

Elephants Carrying Wood to the Canteen in Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh, India)

It was the first time I heard so much silence in India!

I was awake at dawn, and watched the sunrise over the nearby watering hole. Some elephants carried wood in their trunks, making a special delivery to the canteen, followed by a splendid herd of spotted deer.

My safari yielded a tiger sighting! I felt so lucky—the Mumbai fellows told me that yesterday one hundred gypsies (a brand name, like a Jeep) went out and only ten saw a tiger. They had not been one of the lucky ones.

Such a magnificent creature! We spotted him on a hill about thirty feet to the right of the gypsy. He brushed through the grass, crossed right in front of us, and kept walking across the field. It was if he knew we were in his house and he did not have a care in the world. I felt like a bit of a celebrity back at the canteen—all the families wanted to see my tiger photos.

The village of Khatia is right outside the park gate and is tiny, tiny, tiny—it was definitely a sleepy, one-cow town and made Khajuraho seem quite cosmopolitan. Two boys helped me find my guesthouse, showing me a shortcut across some fields. People seemed surprised to see a solo female traveler trudging through the fields with her house on her back.

Around Khatia Village (Madhya Pradesh, India)

I spent the morning at the superb visitors center, which emphasized how wildlife conservation is the first priority over tourism—which explained the tight restrictions over travel and hiking in the park, at least at the time. The Indian Forestry Department funneled park fees back to buffer-zone villages and required local guides on park safaris.

My afternoon was spent wandering the government-sponsored village and the craft fair, which benefited from the influx of Indian tourists during the winter holidays. Not so many crafts, but it was a lovely few mile walk.

Such a friendly village! Whenever I pass by another walker, there was a friendly namaste.

I had a new story I was circulating—I was meeting my husband in Mumbai. Oh, how I wish that was true! But it seems D. is completely disinterested in meeting me at any point during this trip.

Gypsies on Main Street, Downtown Kathia Village (Madhya Pradesh, India)

2013 February 18 | Categories: India--Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh--Khatia, Madhya Pradesh–Kanha National Park, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Bus travel, Elephants, Independent travel for women, India, Kanha National Park, Khatia, Local art, Local crafts, Spotted deer, Tigers | 1 Comment »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Pani Puri Recipe (or Gol Gappa or Puchka) (Crispy, Deep-Fried Puff Balls with Mung Bean Filling and Mint Sauce)

Unfilled Puri (or Pooris)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Pani Puri Recipe/Gol Gappa Recipe/Puchka Recipe

Puris (or pooris) are crispy, deep-fried, golden brown puff balls stuffed with savory filling. Pani puris are typically filled with a potato and mung bean mixture, then topped with a tangy chilled mint and tamarind water (pani)—this pani puri recipe is a delightful and delectable mixture of crispness, tanginess, and spice! Indian street food portions of pani puri are small (sometimes bite size), but you can also make party-size pani puri about 10 inches (25 centimeters) in diameter.

This well-loved Indian street food or snack is sold throughout India and is known as pani puri, gol gappa, puchka (or phuchkas) in different parts of the country.

Prepared puri can be purchased from Indian grocery stores, but as with most things, homemade is always better. It is best to serve puris hot, but if needed, they can be held in a warm oven until service. Puris can be made in advance and stored in at room temperature in airtight containers—just know, they will deflate. The sauce (pani) and the mung bean and potato mixture can be made several days in advance and stored in the refrigerator.

Be sure to wear gloves when chopping the chili peppers, and do not touch your eyes after chopping the peppers! Thoroughly wash the cutting board and knife after handling the peppers.

This unleavened puff bread is traditionally deep fried in a kadhai (wok). You can also use a small, narrow saucepan, which uses less oil. If you use vegetable oil, select one with a high smoke point; peanut, canola, grapeseed, corn, and sunflower oil are all good choices. Always buy cold pressed and USDA-certified organic oil (if you live in the United States) to avoid GMOs.

Filled Pani Puris (or Pooris)

Read the rest of this page »

Yield:

6-8 servings (32 bite-size puris)

Equipment:

Plastic wrap

Clean dish towel

Potato masher (optional)

Rolling pin

Candy thermometer

Slotted spoon

Tongs

Newspaper or paper towels

Wok (kadhai) (optional)

Pani Ingredients:

1 cup (50 grams) mint leaves, stems removed and finely chopped

1 cup (50 grams) cilantro, finely chopped

1 green chili, seeds removed and finely chopped (approximately 1 tablespoon/15 grams)

2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) tamarind concentrate

1 tablespoon (10 grams) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced

1 teaspoon (2 grams) cumin powder

1 teaspoons salt (2 grams) salt

1/4 teaspoon (1/2 gram) black pepper

1 cup water

Pani Procedure:

Combine the mint, cilantro, green chili, tamarind paste, ginger, cumin, salt, and pepper in a medium size bowl.
Add water, stir, and chill until ready to use.

Puri Filling Ingredients:

1/4 cup (50 grams) mung beans, uncooked

1 medium potato, peeled and cubed (about 1 cup/160 grams)

1 teaspoon (2 grams) red chili powder

1 teaspoon (4 grams) salt

1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) turmeric

1/2 small onion, peeled and finely minced (about 1/2 cup or 65 grams)

Filling Procedure:

Put the mung beans and 1 cup of water in a small pan. Bring to a boil and lower to a simmer. Cook until the beans are soft (about 25 minutes).
Put potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are soft (about 5 minutes).
Drain the potatoes, rinse with cold water to stop the cooking process, and mash potatoes with a fork or potato masher.
Combine the mashed potatoes, mung beans, red chili powder, salt, and turmeric in a medium-size bowl. Stir until well combined. Hold the minced onion for the final assembly.

Puri Ingredients:

1 cup (250 grams) whole wheat flour, sifted

1 cup (200 grams) all purpose unbleached flour

1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cumin

1 teaspoon (4 grams) salt

2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) vegetable oil

2/3 cups (160 milliliters) warm water

Approximately 6 cups (1.5 liters) vegetable oil for frying

Puri Procedure:

Combine the whole wheat flour, all purpose flour, ground cumin, and salt in a medium size bowl. Stir until well combined.
Add the oil to the flour and stir to combine. Rub the oil and the flour in your hands to ensure the oil is thoroughly mixed with the flour.
Slowly add the water, stirring and then kneading the mixture. Be sure to add the water in small portions; depending on the time of year and dryness, the recipe may require more or less water. The dough should be smooth and pliable.
Rub your hands with oil and knead the dough until it is smooth (about 7-10 minutes).
Rub the dough with oil and wrap in plastic wrap. Let rest for 30 minutes.
Divide dough into 4 pieces. Roll into a rope and cut into 8 pieces, then roll each piece into a ball. Repeat with the other 3 pieces of dough.
Cover the dough with a clean, damp cloth and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.
Flatten the dough balls into a 1/2 inch (1 1/2 centimeter) disk. Roll each disk into a 2 1/2 inch (6 centimeter) circle and put a on cookie sheet. Repeat for all 32 puris, making sure the edges do not touch. Cover with a clean, damp towel.
Heat the vegetable oil in a kadhai (wok) or saucepan to 375 degrees F/190 degrees C.
Gently place 1-2 puris in hot oil. The dough will sink to the bottom of the pan; as it starts to rise to the surface, use the slotted spoon to hold the puri under the oil, so it puffs like a pillow. Fry each side until it is golden brown, about 1-2 minutes per side.
Remove puris with a slotted spoon or tongs, and drain on kitchen towels, paper towels, or newspaper.
Serve immediately or hold for 15-45 minutes in a warm oven (200 degrees F/100 degrees C).

Pani Puri Assembly:

Gently press a hole in top of a puri.
Fill with mung bean and potato mixture, then top with a small amount of minced onion and chilled mint mixture (pani). Serve immediately.

2013 February 5 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Chaat recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Photographs, Phuchka recipe, Poori recipe, Potato recipe, Puchka recipe, Puri recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 2 Comments »

Gaya and the Long, Long Train Ride to Japalpur (Madhya Pradesh, India)

My tuk tuk to Gaya held twelve people!

I made the mistake of booking a wait-listed ticket, and by 4 pm, my wait-list number went from four to one. Not so good—I was starting to feel like I had a losing lottery number. Read the rest of this page »

I am normally a patient woman—and had adapted to Indian time—but I was desperate to get out of town. Gaya was a dusty, grim, and depressing place—none of that Bodhgaya good pilgrim vibe here! I compulsively made four trips to the train station to check my seat status and on the last visit, the window closed, just as I reached the top of the line. I am embarrassed to admit it, but yes, I started crying. But when the window reopened, I picked myself up, gathered some composure, and mustered a “Namaskar, ji!” I do not know how—the Indian Railways train system was still an unsolvable mystery to me, with undecipherable schedules—but I had a seat. And I vowed—no more wait-listed tickets.

I set out before the sun peeked over the horizon—I was determined to get a seat on that train and leave Gaya. The departure was scheduled for 5:30 am and the train arrived at 7 am—but such is the Indian train system. Another long, long train trip (twelve hours, I think) and then a five+ hour bus ride to Kanha National Park. I was starting to get the rhythm of long distance travel. Sort of.

Before I left home, I saw the film, Darjeeling Limited. Now, I do not know what train they were on—or what train inspired that film—but I am yet to find it! AC 2-tier sleeper (2AC) was definitely more middle class than third class, but third class is a little too colorful for long trips (and the seats a little too hard), at least for anything over a few hours and for this middle aged gal. Unlike the Darjeeling Limited, beautiful women in saris were not serving the chai. And no one was making love in these toilets!

No one in my coach spoke English, so it was a long and quiet ride with lots of reading, Hindi lessons (love Pimsleur), and thinking. It was a pretty solitary trip, with the exception of the last couple hours, when I met a delightful Indian economist, formerly with the United Nations, a well-traveled man who had lived all over the world. He was eagerly planning his next trip and was intrigued by my walkabout. He was also visibly concerned about my solo travels and asked, “Aren’t you afraid?” I answered honestly—for some reason, I am not afraid—and I think it has something to do with the grim reaper in the rear view mirror. I did not have the heart to say how isolating it was sometimes and how much time there was to think—which was sometimes a good thing—and sometimes not. I realized when I spoke with him, though, that I was getting the rhythm of this solo thing—sort of.

It was a 17 hour trip, including the five hour delay. One thing I am learning to depend on is there really is nothing I can depend on, except for chai and chaat at the train station. C’est la vie.

2013 February 3 | Categories: India--Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh--Japalpur, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Independent travel for women, India, Indian Railways, Indian train travel, Indian trains, Japalpur, Solo female travel | Leave A Comment »

Bodh Gaya! (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India, and the Quest for Enlightenment)

Entrance to Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Entrance to Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Pilgrims outside Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Great Buddha Statue (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Prince Siddhartha Gautama, or Siddhartha Buddha (circa 563 BC – 483 BC), was born in Lumbini, southern Nepal—now a sacred pilgrimage place and UNESCO World Heritage site—part of the royal Hindu clan Shakya. He lived a protected and privileged life until age 29, when he discovered life outside the palace and encountered aging, sickness, death, and human suffering.

The Buddha—which means awakened or enlightened one—vowed to live the life of an ascetic and to try and understand the inevitability, impermanence, and suffering of human life. He studied with several teachers, pursued meditative jhana, and eventually came to the middle way, a point between worldly pleasures and extreme self-depreviation and ascetism. As the biography goes, the emaciated Buddha accepted milk and rice pudding from Sujata, a village girl, which helped fortify his mind and body. He went to Bodhgaya and vowed to meditate until he understood the truth about life and death. It was here, under the peepul tree (fiscus religiosa or sacred fig)—later known as the bodhi tree—that the Buddha attained enlightenment, or complete awakening.

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International Buddhist communities have built monasteries and temples all around town, and pilgrims come to Bodhgaya to study, meditate, and take it all in. And an immense surprise for me, it was the twenty-fifth International Kagyu Monlam, bringing even more international pilgrims. The winter is a popular time—Bodhgaya hosts a large Tibetan community between October and March, when many Tibetan refugees come from Himalayan towns of the Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh. I was told that even the Dalai Lama spends part of December and January in Bodhgaya.

To say there was an incredible energy is an immense understatement: it was almost as if Bodhgaya vibrated. It was my first time, I think, to be be near so many people meditating and praying all at one time. The Mahabodhi Temple, the site of bodhi tree, was seriously a sea of saffron and maroon robes. Various monasteries were seated together, linked by country; right in front of me was a section for Korea and Bhutan. I stayed for the afternoon puja and noticed that even the novice monks had a hard time sitting still for so long—the naughty, back-row monks were looking around, checking out the pilgrims, and quietly yucking it up.

Lotus and Marigolds outside Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Outside Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

The Bodhi Tree (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Pilgrims Outside Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Outside Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Outside Mahabodhi Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

So many Tibetans and Tibetophiles! The prayer wheels and mallah beads were flying and the Tibetan pilgrims circled the outer perimeter of the temple, prostrating in prayer.

I lunched at one of the tent restaurants on the outskirts of town and had my first momo, a common dumpling from the Tibetan areas of northern India (particularly Himachal Pradesh and Sikkim), Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan, similar to the Chinese jiaozi or potsticker. There were a plethora of dining options, though, for the international pilgrims, including menus from Japan and Bhutan. I shared my lunch table with a Taiwanese woman, who kindly gave me a miniature prayer book (just the size of my thumb), made by her temple. She instructed me, “Hang it from your car mirror for good luck.” She brought 200 of them from home and I received the lucky last one.

Where all the Marigolds Come From: a Marigold Nursery (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

I spent the late afternoon indulging worldly desires in that sacred place—or rather shopping at the Tibetan refugee market. Here Tibetan refugees sell trinkets, clothing, and jewelry, including the most fabulous Himalayan turquoise (and its imitation). Whew—even the monks were out shopping for souvenirs.

In the midst of all these foreign pilgrims, Bihar was one of the poorest states in India. I read in the Bihar Times that the per capital income is 6600 rupees ($173 USD) versus 67,000 rupees ($1763 USD) in the more prosperous states. There were a number of medical and education charities here, including the Root Institute medical programs (onsite hospital and mobile clinic) and education programs.

Tent Restaurants along Restaurant Row (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

Inside a Tent Restaurant (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

There was a strong communist movement in Bihar, where the Naxalites (a term used to describe various Communist groups) were engaged in a violent struggle for land reform against landowners on behalf of landless laborers. During the afternoon, the local Communist party marched through the central plaza. It seemed relatively calm (at least compared to Berkeley Communists), just some drums and chanting. But then again, I did not know what they were chanting. I was warned (guidebooks, meditation center, shopkeeper, and police station) not to travel at night between Bodhgaya and Gaya, due to bandits. So, due to the 5 am train, I opted to spend a night in less than pleasant Gaya.

India’s poverty and suffering is immense—and something I still cannot begin to fathom. There is a infinite chasm between the haves and have nots—and I certainly am one of the haves. I cannot fathom how I got to my place in life, a middle-age, educated, western, white woman. I never thought I would feel so blessed—and how much obligation comes with that.

I was in India for almost a month. It seemed as soon as I grasped a truth or some knowledge of what would happen next, I was absolutely wrong—or things changed. Let’s face it, I still did not have a clue—just a little tiny sense of what would happen next. This country is wildly and infinitely mind boggling and immense–in so many ways! But I think I am starting to understand why so many people return, so many times. I still have not even scratched the surface–and I have two more months to go.

Pilgrims near the Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India

Pilgrims near the Temple (Bodhgaya, Bihar, India)

2013 January 31 | Categories: Bihar--Bodhgaya, India--Bihar, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Ascetic, Bihar, Bodh Gaya, Bodhgaya, Bodhi tree, Buddha, Buddhism, Communist movement, Dalai Lama, Dumpling, Enlightenment, Great Buddha Statue, Independent travel for women, India, International Kagyu Monlam, Lord Buddha, Mahabodhi Temple, Meditation, Momo, Monks, Naxalites, Photographs, Pilgrimage, Pilgrims, Poverty, Puja, Root Institute, Sacred, Shopping, Siddhartha Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, Solo female traveler, Tent restaurants, Tibetan refugees, Travel in India | 2 Comments »

Two More Bodies Down in Death City + a Bend in the Road. Which Way to Enlightenment?

Sarah was officially down for the count–102 degree fever, chills, sweats, diarrhea, major cramps. I was scheduled for a morning train to Gaya–and Bodhgaya!–but decided to cancel my ticket and make sure all was well. I wanted to take her to the hospital–she was in a rough spot and those symptoms can indicate a whole host of serious ailments. But Sarah was a trooper–said claimed she went through this before and was sure she would survive. I was dubious.

I was down, too, but nothing like Sarah, just some weakness and diarrhea. I have been leaning on my Chinese herbs, huang lian su, and garlic to beat off the bacterial beast, but she swears by charcoal and grape seed extract. In any case, I decided not to venture too far from the facilities, which certainly inhabits wandering.

Sanitation is a bigger problem in Varanasi than most cities, and waterborne illnesses are very common in the villages along the river. We saw a water treatment plant on our boat trip, but frequent power outages yield sewage backups that spill onto the street or back into the river. The river is really septic–yet one sees fish (and fishermen), and there are supposedly fresh water dolphins. Here the Ganges River reportedly has 1.5 million faecal coliform bacteria per 100 milliliters of water. Water that is safe for bathing should have less than 500 milliliters.
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It is a good place to skip street food.

But the angel of death passed! After a couple days, Sarah started to improve and most importantly, her fever decreased. I was really only seriously down for a half day, and decided to try my luck at the train station, to sort out next steps. Alas, the Delhi-Kolkatta train line is notoriously booked and there were no seats for this pilgrim, at least not in the near future. I was sure I could not chance 5 hours on a bus (sans facilities) and starting to wonder if I was meant to wander to Bodhgaya. I knew I was definitely up for some enlightenment. Maybe I should start to work my way south? I was still baffled by the dizzying array of Indian train classes and options, but miraculously secured a seat on a next day 5:30 am train.

And nothing like having some extra time to notice the daily details and the neighborhood beat. I have been studying a very bored sadhu, who is across the street from our guesthouse 24/7–hanging out, listening to the radio, having a smoke. A young European woman with amazing dreadlocks sat with him on this last night, but it seemed she did not speak Hindi and he did not speak English. They sat together in a meditating silence. I was awake at 4 am; she was sleeping upright with puppies in her lap. The sadhu stared ahead, looking beyond the earthly realities of Varanasi.

It was time to catch my train.

Smoking Sadhu (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

2013 January 28 | Categories: India--Uttar Pradesh, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India, Uttar Pradesh--Varanasi | Tags: Bacteria, Food safety, Ganges River, Health and wellness, Healthcare, Illness, India, Indian trains, Sadhu, Sickness, Solo female traveler, Traveler's diarrhea, Traveller's diarrhoea, Varanasi, Water quality, Waterborne illness | Leave A Comment »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Tikki Recipe (Spicy, Fried Potato Patties)

Aloo Tikki

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Tikki Recipe

This aloo tikki recipe is easy to make and so delicious!

Aloo tikki are a very common Indian street food recipe, particularly in northern India. This aloo tikki recipe is made with mashed potatoes, but tikki can be made with other types of vegetables (for instance, sweet potatoes, peas, cauliflower, and root vegetables). The patties are fried in a tawa or skillet, and are served in chaat stalls all over northern India as a snack and for breakfast.

Aloo tikkis are traditionally served with chutney, seasoned yogurt, or chickpea curry.

Yield:

8 servings (8 patties)

Equipment:

Potato masher (optional)

Clean dish towel

Plastic wrap

Tawa or stainless steel or cast iron skillet

Newspaper or paper towels

Ingredients:

3 medium sized potatoes (approximately 3 cups/450 grams), peeled and cubed

2 tablespoons (30 grams) ghee or butter or vegetable oil

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped (approximately 1 cups/130 grams)

1 cup (130 grams) peas, fresh or frozen

1 tablespoon (10 grams) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced

1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cumin

1 tablespoon (4 grams) ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon (1/2 gram) red chili powder

Approximately 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) ghee or vegetable oil

Procedure:

Put potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are soft (about 7-10 minutes).
Drain and mash potatoes with a fork or potato masher.
Heat the ghee or butter in a tawa or skillet over medium high heat. Add onion and cook until soft (about 3 minutes). Add the peas, ginger cumin, coriander, and red chili powder, and cook until the peas are soft (about 3 minutes), stirring occasionally.
Combine the potato mixture with the onion mixture and stir until well combined.
Divide the mixture into eight equal-sized portions.
Rub hands in oil and roll each portion into a ball. Flatten each ball into a patty about 1/2 inch (1 1/2 centimeters) thick.
Generously coat a tawa or skillet with ghee or oil and heat over medium low heat. Place the aloo tikki in the pan and fry each side until golden brown and crusty (about 10-15 minutes). Drain on clean newspaper or paper towels.
Serve hot and enjoy immediately, or hold uncovered in a 250 degree F/120 degree C oven.

2013 January 25 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Aloo tikki recipe, Chaat recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 1 Comment »

Day Trip to Sarnath (Uttar Pradesh, India), the Site of Lord Buddha’s First Teachings

Dhamek stupa (Sarneth, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Reading Monk (Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Dhamek Stupa (Sarneth, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Almost 2500 years ago, Gautama Buddha (formerly Siddhartha Gautama) (circa 563 BCE-483 BCE) came to a place called Deer Park in Sarnath to offer his first teachings. The teachings, called dharma (which simply means truth), were practical directions on how to free oneself from suffering by “relating to the everyday experience of life and mind,” teachings that still form the core of Buddhism. The practical teachings were (and are) simple, based on meditation for developing mindfulness and awareness, offering the possibility for awakened compassion and wisdom. Buddha came to Sarnath five weeks after his enlightenment in Bodhgaya, which is my next stop.
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We caught a tuk tuk to Sarnath, which is about 12 kilometers north of Varanasi. What amazing energy! A number of countries in which Buddhism is a major (or the dominant) religion (including Thailand, Japan, Tibet, Sri Lanka and Myanmar, formerly Burma), established temples and monasteries in Sarnath and monks are a dime a dozen. Sarnath is one of the four major Buddhist pilgrimage sites; the other three are the place of birth (Lumbini, Nepal), place of enlightenment (Bodhgaya), and the place of death (Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh).

I have come to realize that the sacred places have been one of the best parts of this trip, definitely my favorite places. Who can argue with the good pilgrim vibe?

I was a little worried, however, as Sarah is starting to get sick (fever, chills, and body aches. She rested a bit as I walked around the mammoth Dhamek stupa, which marks the sacred site of Buddha’s first teachings to his disciples.

Dhamek Stupa (Sarneth, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Dhamek Stupa (Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Lotus Blossoms (Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Pilgrims (Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Bodhi Tree in Sarnath (Uttar Pradesh, India)Bodhi Tree in Sarnath (Uttar Pradesh, India)

2013 January 14 | Categories: India--Uttar Pradesh, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India, Uttar Pradesh--Sarnath | Tags: Bodhi tree, Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist teachings, Deer Park, Dhamek stupa, Dharma, Gautama Buddha, Independent travel for women, India, Kushingar India, Lord Buddha, Lotus, Lumbini Nepal, Meditation, Mindfulness, Photographs, Pilgrimage, Pilgrims, Sacred, Sarnath, Siddhartha Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, Solo female travel, Teacher, Uttar Pradesh | Leave A Comment »

Sacred Benares: Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh, India), the Holy Hindu City on the Ganges River

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Sadhus next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Nothing can prepare you for Varanasi (Benares), the sacred Hindu city on the Ganges River.

It is the essence of India: a completely overwhelming sensory overload, where life and death blend too comfortably amidst sacred ritual and mortal details (like death and that pesky grim reaper). Varanasi one of the holiest places in India, where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away their sins in the Ganges or to cremate their loved ones at the confluence of the Ganges, Varuna, and Asi Rivers. It is apparently an auspicious place to die, as it offers liberation from moksha (the cycle of death and rebirth). Countless people come here to die and to be cremated.
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From the colorfully-dressed pilgrims, persistent touts peddling their wares, food stalls selling pakoras and samosas and other treats, never ending festivals, and open-pyre cremation of bodies by the Ganges, Varanasi envelops you.

There was, however, a recent tri-city market bombing, which reduced the number of pilgrims and tourists–apparently even moksha-dodging pilgrims like to dodge local terrorism. I was pleasantly surprised that we were the only foreigners to be seen on our early morning walk.

The bathing ghats–really the center of spiritual life–run the length of the river for about 2 kilometers (a little over one mile). Some people were bathing and there were gaggles of sadhus, but not as many as I expected; really, I expected a sea of saffron.

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

We walked along the ghats until we were approached by a wood tout (we didn’t know he was a wood tout at the time), and were given a short lecture on cremation and the meaning of it all. In exchange for the information we “donated” some rupees to one of the “family custodians of the flame,” supposedly for poor people who could not afford cremation. Since there was also an offer to go to a silk shop, it might not have been true, but we both agreed it was well worth the price of information.

The first cremation ghat was for non-Hindus. We were told it takes about three hours to cremate a body; the cost depends on the amount and quality of the wood. Sandalwood is the most desirable; the body is weighed and the rate is calculated based on the amount of of wood. Since the whole body is cremated, there is not supposed to be an odor; indeed, there is just a very, very heavy smell of sandalwood. The bodies are brought to the river soon after death, particularly in the summer (for obvious reasons).

The body is first put on a stretcher, swathed in saffron and/or gold fabric, given a quick purification bath (really just a dunk in the river), than placed on the cremation pyre. After the cremation, the remains are put in the river. Only the male family members attend the cremation; it is implied women are too emotional, even though we were told that men cry on the inside. Some people are not cremated, but sunk in the river: holy men, children, pregnant women, people who committed suicide, and those with leprosy and small pox.

I was astonished by how matter-of-fact the whole process was. We all face death–let us face it, it happens to all of us–but we actually saw a group of male family members playing cards while they waited for the cremation. People quibbled regarding payment and bought fabric to swathe the body. There were about five cremations in progress and it was all very, very routine, just another day at the ghats and facing the afterlife.

Further upriver, we came to the main cremation ghat. Words cannot describe the scene and photos are not allowed, but I am fairly certain I will never forget that image. There were fifteen or twenty cremations in progress, with boatloads of wood at the ready. Smoke was everywhere, sandalwood permeated the air, with the glow of the fire in between plumes of smoke and the movement of the living. Again, a very matter-of-fact operation: bodies were regularly delivered on stretchers and preparations were made then and there. The government built an electronic crematorium, but we were told pilgrims still preferred the traditional method.

I have noticed in India that there is much less obsession with life, with the short period of time we have on this earth. Is it because of reincarnation, because you get to come back around? Because life is so precarious here? I cannot explain it, but there is a frank acceptance that death is the final part of the life cycle–certainly not the case in our youth-oriented culture.

We wandered the bazaar in a daze. Later I bought some candles to float on the river for my late sister and mother and we watched them drift off into the infinity of dissolving moksha.

Ganga Aarti next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

We noticed the priests preparing for the sunset ganga aarti ceremony or puja at Dasaswamedh Ghat. There were six stations next to the river, I think because there were so many people. As the sun went down, the priests chanted to the four directions with an assortment of things: incense, candles, flame, etc. We left when it started raining, and a sadhu dotted us when we we left with the rest of the crowd.

It was truly one of the most incredible days thus far.

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Morning Boat on the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Candles on the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Next to the Ganges River (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

2013 January 10 | Categories: India--Uttar Pradesh, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India, Uttar Pradesh--Varanasi | Tags: Afterlife, Benares, Cremation, Dasaswamedh Ghat, Death, Funeral, Funeral pyre, Ganga Aarti, Ganges River, Ghats, Independent travel for women, India, Moksha, Photographs, Pilgrimage, Pilgrims, Puja, Reincarnation, Sacred, Sadhus, Solo female travel, Urban India, Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi, Yatra | Leave A Comment »

Khajuraho and Kama Sutra-Ville (Khajaraho, Madhya Pradesh, India)

Temples of Khajuraho (Madhya Pradesh, India)

Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by Chardravarman, the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended on a beautiful, streamside-bathing maiden. Today, it is a very dusty place and sadly, not a lot of moon gods.

Khajuraho is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of the seven wonders of India. It was built between 950-1050 AD by Chandel Rajputs, a Hindu dynasty, on a former a lake site; it was the cultural capital of Chandela dynasty and nearby Kalinjar served as the political capital. The Chandelas ruled between the tenth and twelfth centuries before falling to the pesky Mughals. Khajuraho was hidden from the west for a long while, and many of the temples escaped cultural pilfering; 22 of the original 85 temples are extant.

I spent the morning exploring the sandstone temples: beyond amazing and so-well-preserved. Temple mithuna (carved figures detailing a Kama Sutra of possibilities) depicted sensual nymphs and women engaged in all sort of activities: consorting with gods, writing letters, dancing, etc. There are many theories about the temple raison d’être: some scholars say the temples were a stone Kama Sutra to teach young Brahmin boys in all-male temple schools a thing or two; straight-up Tantric images (philosophy: gratification of certain instincts help one transcend the evils of the world and achieve enlightenment); or just a simple celebration of women. It is said that only ten percent of the sculpture have sexual images; many of the sculptures depict day-to-day activity, the dailies. The Chandela kings did use monuments (including temples) to depict Tantric doctrines and UNESCO writes that Chandela society believed in dealing openly with all parts of the human existence, including sex. Like most visitors, I probably saw more of the sensual.

Temples of Khajuraho (Madhya Pradesh, India)

But there you have it, I was in a dusty, 22-temple town, at the end of my rope, lonely and forlorn, looking at millennium-old erotica. Good times!
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It was time to move on from this one-horse town–well, really just a cluster of villages. I was not feeling well (headache and generally weary) and could not stomach the idea of a 15+ hour bus journey, particularly if it was like the last one. Time to live large and book a $100 plane ticket to sacred Varanasi, where everyone goes to die. This took the whole afternoon: first to Indian Airlines to book an afternoon flight (alas, no more seats). Back to the bus/train booking office to scope out alternate schedules: no, a 3 pm-6:45 pm bus connecting to a 7:30 pm – 5:30 am train was definitely too tight a schedule in India! Back to Indian Airlines–but no tickets for today, just tomorrow. Damn it. Back to the hotel to pay for the room, then back to the bus/train counter to cancel the first set of tickets. I was under budget and need a city–even if it is a city where people go to die. Oddly enough, it seemed appropriate.

The universe was with me, and I met Sarah, a New England yoga teacher on a mid-life crisis trip at the Varanasi airport baggage carousel. The bus was not running Sunday night and I approached her about a shared taxi–and she kindly offered to share her room, upmarket for both our budgets, but manna from heaven! I took her up on her offer, as my guest house was by the river, beyond the reach of vehicles and it was, quite frankly, beyond my wherewithall to walk so close to midnight and in such a fragile state.

Since the flight was delayed, the guest house gave away her less expensive, modest room and put us in the most fabulous substitute. Such a treat! There was Indian artwork on the walls, hand-painted wall trim, silk curtains, and the first separate shower either of us had seen in an Indian bathroom.

Things were looking up!

Temples of Khajuraho (Madhya Pradesh, India)

2013 January 3 | Categories: India--Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh--Khajuraho, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Erotic sculpture, Erotica, Independent travel for women, India, Kama Sutra, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, Photographs, Rural India, Sculpture, Solo female travel, Temple | 3 Comments »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Gobhi Samosa Recipe (Singhara) (Triangular, Deep-Fried Pastry with Potato and Cauliflower)

Samosas and Tamarind Chutney

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Gobhi Samosa Recipe (Singhara Recipe)

Samosas are everywhere in India—they seem to be at every roadside stand, bus station, push cart, and and chaat house, and are a popular Indian appetizer. The deep-fried, savory pastry is triangular in shape and can be filled with a variety of vegetables, meat, or sweet coconut—potato is one of the most common fillings. Samosas are called singara (or singhara) in Bengal.

Samosas are usually fried just before serving. They can be eaten at room temperature in a tiffin, or reheated in a microwave or oven. Try 350 degrees/170 degrees C until warm (about 10-15 minutes).

Filled samosas can be prepared in advance and held in the refrigerator or frozen. Proceed to step 4 of samosa assembly, then cover the pastries with a clean, damp cloth and plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 8 hours. Samosas can also be stored in the freezer. Partly fry the samosas about half way, until they are light golden brown. Cool to room temperature, wrap well in plastic or plastic bags, and freeze for up to one month. To finish cooking, take out the desired quantity and deep fry until they are golden brown.
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Be sure to wear gloves when chopping the chili peppers, and do not touch your eyes after chopping the peppers! Thoroughly wash the cutting board and knife after handling the peppers.

Enjoy samosas with tamarind chutney, yogurt, or tomato chutney. Serve extra potato and cauliflower mixture with rice or roti, or freeze it for your next batch of samosas.

Yield:

6-8 servings (24 pieces)

Equipment:

Clean dish towel

Plastic wrap

Rolling pin

Candy thermometer

Slotted spoon

Tongs

Newspaper or paper towels

Wok (kadhai) (optional)

Dough Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups (250 grams) unbleached, all purpose flour

2 tablespoons (20 grams) semolina (cream of wheat)

3/4 teaspoon (3 grams) salt

2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) vegetable oil

Approximately 9 tablespoons (130 milliliters) water

Approximately 6 cups (1.5 liters) vegetable oil for frying

Filling Ingredients:

3 cups cauliflower, small dice (12 ounces/330 grams)

2 cups potato, well-washed and unpeeled, small dice (10 ounces/280 grams)

2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) vegetable oil or ghee

2 teaspoons (3 grams) ground coriander

1 teaspoons (3 grams) garam masala

1 tablespoon (11 grams) fresh ginger root, peeled and finely minced

1 tablespoon green chili, seeded and finely minced (about 1 green chili .5 ounce/15 grams)

1 1/2 cups onion, peeled and small dice (about 1 medium onion 6 ounces/165 grams)

1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt

1 teaspoon (2 grams) turmeric

Dough Procedure:

Combine the flour, semolina, and salt in a medium size bowl. Stir until well combined.
Add the oil or ghee to the flour and stir to combine. Rub the oil and the flour in your hands to ensure the oil is thoroughly mixed with the flour.
Slowly add the water, stirring and then kneading the mixture to form a stiff dough. Be sure to add the water in small portions; depending on the time of year and dryness, the recipe may require more or less water.
Knead the dough by hand until it comes together and is smooth and pliable (about 3 minutes). The dough should be still and firm.
Generously rub the dough ball with oil, wrap in plastic wrap, and let rest for 30 minutes.

Filling Procedure:

Put the cauliflower in medium size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until soft (about 2-3 minutes). Drain, rinse with cold water (to stop the cooking process), and put in a medium size bowl.
Put the potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are soft (about 5 minutes). Drain, rinse with cold water (to stop the cooking process), and add to the cooked cauliflower.
Heat the oil or ghee in a skillet over medium heat and add the coriander, garam masala, ginger root, green chili, onion, salt, and turmeric until the onion and chili are soft (about 5 minutes).
Add the coriander, garam masala, ginger root, green chili, salt, and turmeric. Cook until the green chili is soft and the spices are fragrant (about 3-5 minutes).
Add the onion and chili mixture to the cooked cauliflower and potatoes and stir to combine. Cool to room temperature.

Assembly/Frying Procedure:

Divide the dough into 12 equal sized balls.
Roll each ball into a 5 inch/13 centimeter circle. Cut the circle into 2 halves to make 2 semi-circles.
Rub water the straight and curved edge of the semi-circle with water. Place 1 teaspoon of potato-cauliflower filling (and as much as will fit) in the center of the semi-circle, fold in half, and pinch/press closed. You can use a fork to crimp the edges. Make sure all seams are well sealed, or the samosa will open during cooking.
Finish preparing all 24 samosas, then cover with a clean, damp cloth to prevent them from drying. You can also wrap the tray in plastic wrap and hold in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.
Heat the vegetable oil (about 3 inches (about 8 centimeters) in a wok (kadhai) or small saucepan to about 375 degrees F/190 degrees C. Cooler temperatures will cause the deep fried samosas to absorb oil.
Use the tongs to gently place a few samosas in the hot oil. When the samosas float to the top of the oil and are golden brown, turn them. Fry until golden brown (about 3-5minutes).
Remove samosas with a slotted spoon or tongs and drain on clean kitchen towels, paper towels, or newspaper.
Serve and enjoy immediately, or hold uncovered in a 250 degree F/120 degree C oven.

2012 December 27 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Aloo gobhi samosa, Chaat recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Samosa recipe, Singara recipe, Singhara recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 3 Comments »

The Sexy Road to Khajuraho (Madhya Pradesh, India), Land of the Kama Sutra

I endured the bus ride from hell in the middle of Podunksville, Madhya Pradesh. 175 kilometers (about 100 miles) in six hours: grueling, absolutely grueling! Dust swirled around the bus and coated the permanently closed windows. It was impossible to see: the bus driver actually used his wipers, which just pushed the dust back and forth. The ubiquitous luggage rack groaned under the burden local freight, which included a frighteningly huge supply of eggs. Really, half the up-top luggage rack had eggs, truly an accident waiting to happen. A Bollywood movie blared on the DVD system, as the bus lurched down what seemed like a pitted dirt road.

I was on my way to Khajuraho, home of erotic temple sculptures said to depict the Kama Sutra.

But in India, you are never alone. The teenage boys behind me chanted, “Sexy, sexy, sexy…” and “Halooo sexy…” I was wrapped up like old Russian babushka, a chubby, middle-aged, and married woman on a walkabout–well, for what and where I was walking was still very unclear. I gave them the evil eye and told them to shut up, but then they launched into Hindi songs, undoubtedly something sexy.

I was close to done with “Halloooo….!!!” “Where are you going…?” “Where are you from…?” “Want to look in my shop? Not now? Maybe later?” “Madame, why do you ignore me?”
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You want to know why, sir? Because you are really, really pissing me off. And even though I am a peaceful kind of gal, I was thinking some very negative thoughts. It was probably sleep deprivation, but I was started to think dark thoughts about those little boys. Yes, I thought of kicking some Indian male ass. Even the mosquitoes were pesky! Did the erotic sculpture make them frisky? (um, the men, not the mosquitoes).

I was alone, run down, and moving too fast. I had to get off the sightseeing treadmill, but I just had to see what was around the next bend.

2012 December 18 | Categories: India--Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh--Khajuraho, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Erotic sculpture, Erotica, Harrassment, Independent travel for women, India, Kama Sutra, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, Rural India, Sexy, Solo female travel | Leave A Comment »

Weeks that Give One Pause: Death, Breast Cancer, Grieving, YOLO, Carpe Diem, Loss, the Search for Life, and the Future

Today was beyond difficult: it was six years ago since my younger sister, G (just age 37), died of breast cancer.

Times like this cause you to love (or hate) Facebook. On one hand, there are times to embrace the group hug. On the flip side, you see the emotionalness chasm between present and past relationships. My former brother-in-law posted his usual Facebook remembrance, the plaque on G’s memorial bench. His new wife (G’s best friend and my best friend at the time) gave it a like. As usual, no card, no note; according to them, they shared so much during the process (never mind the flirting two months after G’s death). I slept in G’s hospital and hospice room every night and all the moments up until that (the baths, the toilet assistance, the walks, the medical equipment pickup, holding her hand during the brain seizures) and yes, I was there for G’s final breath. But they shared so much. That final time was so precious, and it still amazes how we all remember it (or do not remember it)!

Spending time with G. during those final days–and remembering how she lived–caused me to change many things in my life (see the About section of this blog).

But back to the mundane dailies. Idiot that I am, I scheduled my annual mammogram the day before G’s anniversary. With a sadistic, radiology technician. At 7:30 am. Sadist Sally asked if I had to go back to work; when I said I worked from home, she cranked up the volume on that breast pancake machine. I have had about eight mammograms (not to mention a stray ultrasound or so), but it was the first time the pancake machine left red marks. To top it off, Sadist Sally could not find my radiology records; no, none at all, even though I have been going to the same facility for five years.

Then there was more grieving. Besides remembering the past (and that annual glance into the grim reaper’s rear view mirror) a former colleague passed, metastasized ovarian and breast cancer to the lungs. She left this earth with a partner and their young son. When I was younger, I thought women with breast cancer just died of various cancers; I did not know it was almost always breast cancer. My friend was BRCA+, the same week the ACLU challenges Myriad Lab for Myriad’s attempt to patent genes, thus monopolizing their research on BRCA 1 and BRCA 2. Do not ask me why we can call Ma Bell a monopoly, but the human genome (and the future of medicine)–is protected. Absolutely incredible!

As if this was not enough, my friend lost her son in a single automobile accident, on a scouting trip for woodland wildlife. He was 37 (the same age G was), with a young widow and sweet little daughter, age 2. D. and I went to the wake, but I have not had the courage to go by L’s house. It was incomprehensible and words escape me to try and connect with her sorrow.

Oddly enough, there was a Boston Globe piece on YOLO, an under age 25, generational philosophy that means you only live once. Carpe diem, as they say.

Living near G taught me to live for the moment (or to at least try; I seem to have the Mennonite genes whereas G. had the hedonistic papa genes). Yep. Carpe diem. Again.

My heart grieves over all this loss–really, way, way too much loss. We never know what is around the corner, which is what caused me to shake things up, to leave my marriage, to walkabout.

I know the universe is trying to tell me something.

2012 December 11 | Categories: Midlife crisis | Tags: ACLU, Automobile accident, BRCA, Breast cancer, Breast cancer screening, Carpe diem, Death, Facebook, Future, Genetic mutation, Grieving, Hospice, Human genome, Loss, Lung cancer, Mammogram, Metastasized cancer, Mourning, Myriad Laboratory, Ovarian cancer, Palative care, Radiology, Remembering, YOLO | Leave A Comment »

The Road to Tiny Orchha (Madhya Pradesh, India)

I had a 8 am – 11 am bus to Jhansi, then a 30 minute/15 kilometer tuk tuk ride to petite Orchha. The name means hidden place–and that it was. A deserted, medieval village, Orchha was the capital of the Bundela rajas from the sixteenth century to 1783. It was a sleepy little town: a fabulous fifteenth-century fort, temple, palaces, and havelis, but not much more. The sleepy little bazaar was just a few blocks long. After wandering the sights and watching the sun slide behind the surrounding farmland–and listening to some chanting for Lord Rama, who is believed to live in Ram Raja Temple–I was asleep by 9 pm.

My road weariness was starting to catch up with me. I was physically and emotionally exhausted, really at the end of my rope. People have told me it is much harder to be a solo female traveler in northern India. All I knew was D. was completely disinterested in meeting me and I was desperately lonely and very alone. I was taking my trusty Chinese herbs, huang lian xu, and was avoiding stomach distress, but I had serious traveler malaise. I was not feeling one-hundred percent on the health front and really, really needed a hug. Or something…

Inside the Jahangir Mahal Palace (Orchha, Madha Pradesh, India)

Orchha (Madhya Pradesh, India)

Inside the Jahangir Mahal Palace (Orchha, Madha Pradesh, India)

Sunset at the Ruins around Orchha (Madhya Pradesh, India)

Cow Eating Marigolds Tossed Off by the Devotees of Lord Rama (Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India)

Wall Paintings in Raj Mahal Temple (Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India)

2012 November 28 | Categories: India--Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh--Orcha, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Bazaar, Bundela, Cows, Fort, Havelis, Independent travel for women, India, Jahangir Mahal Palace, Jhansi, Lord Rama, Marigolds, Orcha, Paintings, Palaces, Photographs, Raj Mahal Temple, Rajas, Ran Raja Temple, Ruins, Rural India, Solo female travel, Temple | 2 Comments »

Jackals, Mongoose, Kingfishers, Oh My: Keoladeo National Park (Rajasthan, India)

Mother Monkey and Her Nursing Baby (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

The one-hour bus ride from Agra to Keoladeo National Park was beyond hair raising. Auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, buses, trucks, goats, and cows all vied for space on petite, two-lane Highway 11. The passing protocol was to honk aggressively, whip around the object to be passed, reassess, and if necessary, duck back in (usually with inches to spare). My nerves were shredded by the time we reached the park.

I am not a fan of guided tours, but decided to go around by bicycle with a naturalist, Babulal, a local villager trained by the Forestry Department. The guides were provided with one year of free education and were hired directly by travelers; they were not government employees. It was a tough gig with stiff competition: 80 park-trained guides were rotated in, with 15-20 guides available at one time.

Unfortunately, that part of Rajasthan had not had a monsoon for two years and wildlife–and the villagers who depended on people to come see wildlife–were noticeably affected. There should have been 3-4 feet of water on either side of the road, but what little was there was pumped in by the government.

It was still an outstanding afternoon at the park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Keoladeo is a mix of woodlands, grasslands, wetlands, and scrub forests with 350 species of birds, which includes 42 species of raptors and 9 species of owls, 34 species of mammals, 57 species of fishes, 22 species of reptiles, 71 species of butterflies, and 8 species of amphibians. Indian species of birds mingle with 130 bird species from as far away as the Central Asia and the Russian steppes; the park is known as a birders’ paradise.

And there were all manner of Indian birds and wildlife–as well as a stork from Holland. It was, simply put, quite amazing. We saw jackals, antelope, mongoose, spotted deer, nursing monkeys, wild peacock, kingfisher, herons, among others. Apparently there were a gaggle of pythons, too, but I missed those.

I thought the bus would stop at Fatepur Sikri, a ghost city from the 1500s and former Mughal imperial capital. No dice, but no worries, as I was on the fence–road weariness had definitely set in. Alas, back to smog-choked Agra.

Spotted Owls (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

Wild Parakeets (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

Kingfisher (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

My Guide and Naturalist, Babulal, Looking for Wildlife (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

Deer (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

Antelope (Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan, India)

2012 November 26 | Categories: India--Rajasthan, Rajasthan--Keoladeo National Park, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Antelopes, Birds, Fatepur Sikri, Fauna, Flora, Herons, Independent travel for women, India, Jackals, Keoladeo National Park, Kingfisher, Mammals, Mongoose, Monkeys, Mughal architecture, Nature, Peacock, Photographs, Reptiles, Solo female travel, Spotted deer, Wildlife, World Heritage Site | 2 Comments »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Paratha Recipe (Griddle Fried Flatbread with Potato Filling)

Aloo Paratha at the Snow View Dhaba en route to Kaza (Rohtang Pass, Himachal Pradesh, India)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Paratha Recipe

Parathas are whole wheat Indian flatbread fried on a griddle. They can be made plain or stuffed; potato (aloo), cauliflower (gobi), chickpea (chana), or cheese (paneer)

Aloo Paratha (Griddle Fried Flatbread with Potato Stuffing)

are some of the most common fillings.

Nothing compares to steaming, piping hot parathas, fresh off the griddle. Parathas are a popular breakfast item in northern India, but I can happily eat them morning, noon, and night!

This dough can be also be used for roti or chapati. The dough can be made up to twenty four hours in advance; keep it in a covered container in the refrigerator and bring it to room temperature before use. The potato mixture can be made two days in advance; it should also be brought to room temperature before use.
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Yield:

5 parathas

Equipment:

Pastry brush

Rolling pin

Ingredients:

Dough:

3 cups (450 grams) whole wheat flour, sifted

2 teaspoons (6 grams) salt

2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) ghee or unsalted butter, melted or vegetable oil

1 cup (250 ml) warm water plus additional as needed

Whole wheat flour for dusting

2/3 cup (160 ml) vegetable oil or ghee, melted for cooking parathas

Filling:

4 medium potatoes (about 2 cups/.5 liter), boiled, peeled, and mashed

1 tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil

1 green chili (approximately 5 teaspoons/5 ml), seeds removed and finely minced

1 tablespoon (5 grams) ground coriander

1 tablespoon (5 grams) ground cumin

2 tablespoons (25 grams) fresh ginger root, peeled and finely minced

1 teaspoon (2 grams) paprika

2 teaspoons (4 grams) salt

Dough:

Sift flour into a medium-size mixing bowl. Add the salt and stir until well combined.
Using your hands, mix the melted ghee or butter into the flour mixture.
Slowly add the water to the flour mixture, kneading the mixture to form a smooth dough. The amount of water will depend on the type of flour, how rough the grain is, and how dry the air is. Knead the dough until it is smooth and pliable (about 8-10 minutes). This helps develop the gluten.
Divide the dough into 10 equal-sized balls. Cover with a damp cloth and let rest for approximately 30 minutes.

Filling:

Put the potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are soft (about 7-10 minutes).
Drain and mash potatoes with a fork or potato masher.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the green chili, coriander, cumin, ginger, paprika, and salt. Stir and cook until the the green chili and ginger is soft and the spices are aromatic (about 3 minutes).
Put the mashed potatoes and spice mixture in a medium size bowl and stir until well combined.

Assembly:

Roll the balls of dough into circles approximately 5 inches (13 centimeters) in diameter. Dust the counter with flour (if necessary) to keep the dough from sticking; do not use excess flour. Cover the dough circles and potato mixture with a clean, damp towel.
Put 1/5 of the potato mixture (about 1/3 cup) in the center of a dough circle. There should be approximately a 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) border along the edge. Using your fingers, brush the edges of the dough with water, and cover with a second piece of rolled dough. Firmly press and seal the edges of the dough circle, pinching the border from both sides. Gently roll into a 7 inch (18 centimeter) circle, rolling the border to ensure it is sealed.
Repeat for the remaining 4 parathas. Cover with a clean, damp cloth until ready to cook.
Heat a griddle (tawa) or frying pan on medium high heat and brush the surface with vegetable oil or melted ghee. Sprinkle a few drops of water on the frying pan; if the water bounces, the pan is hot enough.
Place the paratha on the griddle and cook until golden brown (approximately 2-3 minutes). Lightly brush the paratha with vegetable oil or melted ghee, turn, and cook the other side. The paratha should be golden brown and crisp.
It is best to serve the parathas immediately; if you need to hold them, stack and cover with a clean dish towel. Enjoy!

2012 November 15 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Aloo paratha, Bread, Chaat recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 2 Comments »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Chop Recipe (Breaded and Deep Fried Potato Fritters)

Aloo Chop (Breaded and Fried Potato Fritter)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Aloo Chop Recipe

Chop or chaap is a popular type of chaat sold at bus stations and train stations. Mashed potatoes are filled with a savory filling, dipped in egg and bread crumbs, and deep fried. Chop can be made with ground meat, but this is a common vegetarian version. Chop is usually served with tomato chutney; you can use ketchup in a pinch.

A Middle Eastern version of chop is served in Syria and Iraq.

A wok (kadhai) is helpful for frying. You can also use a small, narrow saucepan, which will require less oil. If you use vegetable oil, select one with a high smoke point; peanut, canola, grapeseed, corn, and sunflower oil are all good choices. Always buy cold pressed and USDA-certified organic oil (if you live in the United States) to avoid GMOs
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Yield:

5 servings (20 pieces)

Equipment:

Candy thermometer

Slotted spoon

Tongs

Newspaper or paper towels

Wok (kadhai) (optional)

Ingredients:

4 medium sized potatoes (approximately 3 cups/.5 liter), peeled and cubed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 large onions, peeled and finely chopped (approximately 2 1/2 cups/320 grams)

1 green chili, seeded and finely minced (approximately 5 teaspoons/20 grams)

1 tablespoon ground coriander (5 grams)

1 teaspoon ground cumin (2 grams)

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced (approximately 1 tablespoon/13 grams)

2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced (25 grams)

1 teaspoon turmeric (2 grams)

1 tablespoons lemon juice (15 milliliters)

1 teaspoon salt (and to taste) (2 grams)

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup breadcrumbs or panko

Approximately 6 cups (1.5 liters) vegetable oil for frying

Procedure:

Put potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are soft (about 7-10 minutes).
Drain and mash potatoes with a fork or potato masher.
Heat oil in a wok (kadhai) or small saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft (about 3 minutes). Add the green chili, coriander, cumin, garlic, ginger , and turmeric and cook until the green chili pepper is soft (about 3 minutes), stirring occasionally.
Add the onion to the potato mixture and stir to combine.
When the potato mixture is cool, divide it into 20 equal-sized balls (about one heaping tablespoon). Each ball should be about 1 1/2 inch or 4 centimeters in diameter. The potato balls should be covered with a clean, damp cloth if they will not be cooked immediately.
Heat 2 inches (about 5 centimeters) of vegetable oil in a wok (kadhai) or small saucepan to 375 degrees F/190 degrees C. Cooler temperatures will cause the deep fried aloo chop to absorb oil.
Dip each potato ball in egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and immediately drop into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown (about 3-5minutes).
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towels, paper towels, or newspaper.
Serve and enjoy immediately, or hold uncovered in a 250 degree F/120 degree C oven.

2012 November 14 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Aloo chaap recipe, Aloo chop recipe, Chaat recipe, Chop recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 3 Comments »

First Train Trip to the Most Famous Mausoleum: Agra and the Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Horrific start time: I was out the door at 5 am to catch a 6:15 am train to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Indian Railways has seven classes of service, albeit not all are available on all trains.

This was my first time in a second class car, and I must say, I was amazed by the luxury of it all. Infinitely more civilized than the way I had been traveling! For me, it was jaw dropping service: complimentary newspapers, water, tea, biscuits, and breakfast! The raucous Azerbaijani soccer team filled half the train, which made for a festive ride.

Everyone told me that nothing prepares you for your first glimpse of the Taj Mahal–and that was somewhat true. It seemed to be the architectural embodiment of magnificence, grace, and elegance, a pristine albino monument to love, the perfect blend of balance and symmetry. All tourists (and travelers) eventually land there, and it is popular spot for Indian families, lovers, and tourists, creating an unexpectedly colorful sea of saris and merriment. Yes, it was spectacular, an unexpectedly intricate and elaborate example of Islamic architecture, with Qu’ranic verse, leaves, flowers, and symmetry cast in a beautiful inlay of white marble. It is considered to be the finest example of Mughal architecture.

Unfortunately, the Taj was choking on exhaust fumes and sulphur dioxide. There was a 500 meter no-vehicle zone that was to be expanded to two kilometers. Many Agra guest house claimed to have rooftop views of the Taj, but it was barely visible through the thick, gray haze. The pollution was supposedly from the 1700 shoe and leather factories in and around Agra, highway vehicles, and hotel diesel generators (many power outages). As a result, the Taj has a fungus nicknamed “marble cancer.” The city appeared beyond cleanup and the touts were so prolific that police officers were stationed outside the train station with batons, swatting back the swarm.

Security was very tight; I was told to check my books and bag, and was frisked by a female guard in the ladies’ queue.

The story goes that Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (1592-1666) built the Taj Majal (1632-1648) in memory of this third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, a mausoleum, but also a symbol of eternal love. Some scholars, however, are questioning the theory–and that Shah Jahan died with a loving gaze tossed at his wife’s tomb. In truth, the Mughal’s decadent emperor, died of at the age of 74 of a large quantity of opium and aphrodisiacs.

Taj Mahal and Pump (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

But onward and upward. Agra was the site of my first bike rental, a death defying feat in any Indian city. The rickshaw wallahs and touts were thick and fierce in Agra, and a bike seemed to be a good way to get around the endless cries of “Halllooooo….where are you going madame?” “Would you like to look in my shop…?” (and if I was impatient) “Madame, why are you mad at me….?” However, the universe was not with me and my two-wheeled bicycle universe: I was a little competitive and the brakes were partly functional. I kept passing other cyclists (all male) and bicycle rickshaws–until I forgot about the questionable brakes and almost took out a group of little girls! Fortunately, it was a comedic moment, but no harm was done. Well, except for my very bruised dignity, which I brushed off, along with my trusty wheels.

View of the Yamuna River from the Taj Mahal (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Tourists on a Bench at the Taj Mahal (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Obligatory Photo at the Taj Manal (I Admit it, I Wish I Fixed my Hair!) (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

New Friends at the Taj Mahal (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Festive Crowd at the Taj Mahal (Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Amar Singh Gate and Fort Entrance (Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh)

2012 November 12 | Categories: India--Uttar Pradesh, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India, Uttar Pradesh--Agra | Tags: Agra, Bicycle, Bicycle rickshaw, Independent travel for women, Indian Railways, Indian train travel, Indian trains, Mughal architecture, Mughal Empire, Mumtaz Mahal, Photographs, Shah Jahan, Solo female travel, Taj Mahal, Touts, Traffic, Travel in India | 6 Comments »

Indian Street Food Recipes–Pakora Recipe (Deep Fried Vegetable Fritters) and North Indian Chaat Houses

Pakora (Deep Fried Vegetable Fritters)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Pakora Recipe

Part restaurant, part cart-side cafe–chaat (or snack houses) are everywhere, serving small plates of savory snacks. Chaat is a savory snack, often served from roadside carts and sometimes hole-in-the-wall restaurants. Chaat is often based on some variant of fried dough.

In particular, pakoras seem to be everywhere, at street stands, roving vendors and train and bus stations. I had my first pakora at a road side stand, on the way to Rishikesh–yum! Typically made of vegetables, pakoras can also be made of paneer (cheese) and sometimes fruit. The vegetables are dipped in seasoned batter of chickpea (also called gram or besan) flour and deep-fried until crisp and golden brown.

A wok (kadhai) is helpful for frying. You can also use a small, narrow saucepan, which will require less oil. If you use vegetable oil, select one with a high smoke point; peanut, canola, grapeseed, corn, and sunflower oil are all good choices. Always buy cold pressed and buy USDA-certified organic (if you live in the United States) to avoid GMOs
Read the rest of this page »

Yield:

6-8 servings

Equipment:

Candy thermometer

Slotted spoon

Tongs

Whisk

Wok (kadhai) (optional)

Ingredients:

Batter:

2 cups/277 grams of chickpea (gram) flour, sifted

1/4 teaspoon (.5 grams) cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon (5 grams) ground coriander

1 teaspoon (2 grams) garam masala

1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) turmeric

1 1/2 teaspoons (5 grams) salt

1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) baking powder

Approximately 1 cup (.25 liter) cold water, or more, as needed

Vegetables:

Approximately 3 cups of any of the following vegetables, washed, patted dry and at room temperature:

Bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1/4 inch slices
Cauliflower pieces, lightly blanched and cut into bite size pieces
Eggplant, cut into 1/4 inch slices
Onion, peeled and cut in 1/4 inch rounds
Potato, peeled, cooked, and cut in 1/4 inch rounds
Pumpkin, peeled, cooked, and cut in bite size pieces
Squash, peeled, cooked, cut in bite size pieces
Sweet potato, peeled, cooked, and sliced in 1/4 inch rounds
Tomatoes (red or green), cut in 1/4 inch slices
Zucchini, lightly blanched and cut in 1/4 inch slices

Approximately 6 cups (1.5 liters) vegetable oil or ghee for frying

Procedure:

Combine the chickpea flour, cayenne pepper, ground coriander, garam masala, turmeric, salt, and baking powder in a medium size mixing bowl. Stir until well combined.
Add half the water and stir to combine. Gradually add more water, whisking until the batter is smooth and the consistency of heavy cream or thin pancake batter. Add additional flour or water, as necessary.
Heat approximately 2 inches (about 5 centimeters) of vegetable oil or ghee to 375 degrees F/190 degrees C. Cooler temperatures will cause the deep fried pakoras to absorb oil.
Use tongs to dip cut vegetables in the batter and then the oil. Fry until golden brown (about 3-5 minutes).
Remove pakoras with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towels, paper towels, or newspaper.
Serve and enjoy immediately, or hold uncovered in a 250 degree F/120 degree C oven.

2012 November 8 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Chaat recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Pakora recipe, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 4 Comments »

Rishikesh: Gateway to the Himalayas (and Enlightenment?) I Could Use Some Enlightenment…

Sunset over the Ganges River (Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India)

Quick transfer–I arrived on one side of Delhi at 9:30 am and flew through the metro to Delhi’s Interstate Bus Terminal (ISBT). Just in time for a 10:30 am-4 pm bus to Rishikesh, in the foothills of the Himalayas!–at least that was the posted schedule. I was in search of a quiet spot to rest, possibly do some trekking, and check the late November temperatures, to see if it was possible to keep continue north to Dharamsala, the land of the Dalai Lama and displaced Tibetan refugees.

We rolled through an endless landscape of sugar cane fields and drying cow dung patties; the latter are used for cooking and heating. Then we hit rush hour sugar cane traffic: it was stop and go for hours. Our 4 pm arrival turned into a 8 pm arrival. But such is the world of Indian transit! Thanks to one of my bus mates, Schooky, a Dutch yoga teacher and eight-time visitor to India, we arrived at a peaceful guesthouse nestled at the base of the Ganges River (Ganga). You could hear the wind and the Ganga lapping river rocks, with just a few lights dancing across the river. Perfect!

Rishikesh is where the wooded mountains meet the valley floor and the sacred Ganga moves toward the plains; it also known as the Himalayan foothills or the gateway to the Himalayas. The Ganga is the most sacred river in India, rising from the Himalayan plateau, meandering across northern India and Bangladesh, and emptying into the Bay of Bengal. Rishikesh is also ashram central, hosting a dizzying array of yoga and meditation centers and all things Ayurvedic. It is a way station for sadhus heading for high mountain pilgrimages, and a base for trekking. The Beatles came here in 1968 to meet Yogi Maharishi Mahesh, and other western yatras (pilgrims) followed. I wanted to visit in the winter; I wanted to feel the tranquility and miss the yatra razzmatazz, and to see the headwater of the Ganga before heading to sacred Varanasi. There western more western pilgrims than you could shake a stick at, particularly in the upper village, Lakshmanjhula. Blissed out and enlightenment streaming from their eyes, it definitely was not my scene–at least not yet.

The wind was starting to come down from the north, off the snowfields of the high Himalaya. My original plan was to head north to Uttar Kashi (reported to be a trekking paradise and the origin of the Ganges and Yamuna River) and Dharamsala (the home of the Tibetan government-in-exile and refugee community), but my instinct said is was the wrong direction. It was supposed to be an early winter and the sadhus were already in a morning huddle around a blazing fire, swaddled in blankets. It was not time for more mountains; that will have to be another time.

Sadhu Meditating in the Middle of the Ganges River (Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India)e heading to sacred Varanasi.

Footbridge over the Ganges River (Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India)

: Lower Village at Rishikesh (Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India)

Ashram Where the Beattles Visited Yogi Maharishi Mahesh (Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India)

Ganges River between Ramjhula and Lakshmanjhula (Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India)

2012 November 5 | Categories: India--Uttarakhand, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India, Uttarakhand--Rishikesh | Tags: Ashram, Ayurvedic Center, Ganga, Ganges River, Headwater, Himalaya Mountains, Himalayan Foothills, Independent travel for women, Photographs, Rishikesh, Sadhu, Solo female travel, Travel in India, Trekking, Uttarakhand, Yoga, Yogi Maharishi Mahesh | Leave A Comment »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Meetha Lassi Recipe (Sweet Yogurt Shake)

Meetha Lassi (Sweet Yogurt Shake)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Meetha Lassi Recipe (Sweet Yogurt Shake)

Icy cold, soothing, thirst-quenching lassis! Lassis can fix everything, including the most robust travel malaise and pronounced solo traveler funk (STF). Lassis are perfect in hot, humid weather—particularly summer—and are a surprisingly filling, healthy snack or quick, on-the go meal.

Lassis are typically fruit-flavored, sweet, or salty—sweet lassis are the most popular. Sweet lassis are usually a little thicker than fruit or salty lassis, generally about a four to one yogurt-water ratio.

Indian fruit lassis are commonly made with papaya, mango, or banana, but you can use whatever fruit is seasonal and local in your area. I live in the northeast United States and strawberry season is just around the corner. I am already looking forward to whirring up some lassis with sweet, young strawberries and maybe some crisp, tender spinach—a great way to get a couple extra servings of fruits and vegetables! The following recipe is for traditional proportions, but feel free to add 1 cup puréed or mashed fruit or vegetable and a little more water.

Traditional Indian yogurt is made fresh each day from cow’s milk or buffalo milk. Yogurt is very easy to make, but I have not quite worked it into my regular routine—although it is on my list. Two major advantages: you can source your own milk (organic, raw, or lower lactose goat milk) and reduce the amount of plastic that goes into the recycling bin. In my area, I like Butterworks Farm yogurt from Vermont, which is made from organic milk and live cultures.

So good for you, too! Yogurt provides vitamin D, calcium, and probiotics, live microorganisms that restore the intestinal balance. Be sure to buy yogurt with live active cultures, so you get your probiotics.

The following recipe is for a traditional proportions and uses sugar, the traditional sweetener. Feel free to substitute locally-grown honey or agave, which will increase the nutritional profile and lower the glycemic index. Agave is a natural, vegan sweetener from Mexico, which is made from cactus (blue agave, salmiana, green, gray, thorny, or rainbow). It has a lower glycemic index than many sweeteners, and releases into the bloodstream more slowly (i.e., it does not spike your blood sugar) although is quite high in fructose (50-80 percent versus honey at 30 percent and maple syrup with 50 percent sucrose). Be sure to choose minimally-processed agave. Although it not locally-produced, its use as a sweetener has provided an alternative, more financially lucrative market for organic agave farmers, who were previously at the mercy of tequila producers. Instead of 1/4 cup sugar, use 1/8 cup honey or agave.

Yield:

2 servings (1 3/4 cups/.4 liter)

Ingredients:

1 cups (240 ml) whole milk yogurt

1/4 cup (6 g) sugar or other sweetener

1/3 cup (80 ml) ice water

3 ice cubes, crushed

Combine yogurt and sweetener in a medium mixing bowl and whisk until light and frothy.
Add ice water and whisk until well combined, light, and frothy.
Stir in the crushed ice, serve in chilled glasses and enjoy!

purée

2012 October 31 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Beverage, Chaat recipe, Dairy recipe, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Lassi recipe, Photographs, Probiotics, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Sweet lassi recipe, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 2 Comments »

Udaipur: a Quintessential Palace Town. But Romance is Wasted on the Solo Traveler

I hopped a 2-9pm-ish bus to Udaipur, my last stop in Rajasthan. My nomadic existence and living out of a backpack was so not my norm, but I was slowly developing a somewhat familiar routine. Foreign was becoming familiar. I knew I was moving too quickly–way too quickly! India, however, is immense, in all senses of the word. I could not shake the feeling that I needed to see what there was to see, to know what was around the bend. I knew I was checking off places, though, and not having experiences–but I could not help myself.

Udaipur is a city of palaces, luxury from another era. City Palace crowns the east side of Lake Pichola. Built after the formation of Udaipur in 1559, it is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. Lake Pichola laps the pristine, white lake palace and Jag Niwas and Jag Mandi islands, all hugged by the Aravalli Hills. Jag Niwas is now the luxury (and tres elegant) Taj Lake Palace Hotel (1746), a pleasure palace built by a young prince fond of indulging in moonlit picnics with an entourage of courtesans. The grand presidential rooms, the best of the batch, are four times my three month travel budget! Yes, Udaipur was truly stunning, quintessential postcard material. It was reported to be a seductive, romantic city–and certainly more atmospheric than Jodhpur. Romance, however, is wasted on the solo traveler.

So I went for tea at the Lake Palace Hotel and met a charming traveling duo, a 70-something English artist, Rita, and her 40-something German friend, Verena. Rita used to date Verena’s father; the relationship did not work out, but they were well-matched travel buddies. They were my first dining companions this trip–wonderful conversation and veritable culinary feast!

I frequently pondered why I am doing this and if I will make it. I was alone and lonely–I missed D immensely, but he did not seem at all interested in meeting somewhere down the road.

Jag Mandir Palace from Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Sunset over Jag Niwas Island/Lake Palace on Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Sunset over Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Sunset over Jag Niwas Island/Lake Palace on Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Jag Niwas Island/Lake Palace on Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Sunset over Jag Mandir Palace from Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

Jag Mandir Palace from Lake Pichola (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

Wedding Procession (Udaipur, Rajasthan, India)

2012 October 29 | Categories: India--Rajasthan, Rajasthan--Udaipur, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: City Palace, Independent travel for women, India, Jag Mandi, Jag Niwas, Lake Pichola, Palace, Photographs, Rajasthan, Solo female travel, Travel in India, Udaipur | Leave A Comment »

Jodhphur: Chaos in the Blue City

10 am-4 pm bus ride across the sparse and scrubby Thar Desert, an arid and unwelcoming ecoregion, the seventh largest desert in the world. Lots of camels and goats nibbled on tree branches, trying to eke out a little sustenance from the inhospitable desert. The color of tribal turbans was changing, a myriad of markers, but I was unsure how to read them.

Jodhphur was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief of the Rathore clan. Located on the strategic route between Delhi and the state of Gujarat, Jodhphur flourished as a stop on the trade route. It is the second largest city in Rajasthan and I will be honest–it rattled me more than Delhi. Crazy busy! One and a half million people! I stayed in the old city, which is beyond congested and chaotic. In some spots, the street was barely wide enough for one or two people, yet there were autos and tuk tuks zooming by. At the time, there were very few compressed natural gas (CNG) vehicles, as in Delhi.

I knew I was there for some obligatory tourist activity: it is definitely a straight-up sightseeing stop. I made an early start and had an outstanding morning touring the formidable Merhrangarh Fort (1459) and the Umaid Bhawan Palace, which was commissioned by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1929 as a famine relief project.

I had to get out. Fast. To the mountains. Someplace small and serene. My plan was to try and head north before heading east toward Varanasi.

I was not sad to leave Jodhphur. I hopped a 2-9 pm bus to Udaipur, my last stop in Rajasthan.

Mrs. Indu, My Hostess. Wonderful Woman, Terrible Room (Jodphur, Rajasthan, India)

Thar Desert, Rajasthan, India

Night Market Chaos (Jodphur, Rajasthan, India)

Mehrangarh Fort (Jodhphur, Rajasthan, India)

Palace in Mehrangarh Fort (Jodhphur, Rajasthan, India)

Mehrangarh Fort (Jodhphur, Rajasthan, India)

Palace Performers in Mehrangarh Fort (Jodphur, Rajasthan, India)

Staged Man with Water Pipe in Mehrangarh Fort (Jodphur, Rajasthan, India)

Brahmin Blue Houses (Jodhphur, Rajasthan, India

: Umaid Bhawan Palace (Jodhphur, Rajasthan, India)

2012 October 27 | Categories: India--Rajasthan, Rajasthan--Jodphur, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Fort, Independent travel for women, India, Jodhpur, Merhrangarh Fort, Palace, Photographs, Rajasthan, Solo female travel, Travel in India, Umaid Bhawan Palace | 1 Comment »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Chai Masala Recipe (Indian Spiced Tea) Chai-eeee! Chai-eeee!

Indian Street Food Recipes: Chai Masala Recipe (Indian Spiced Tea)

Ajay, the guesthouse owner, told me about his first love over a cup of tea.

He and his brothers were quite the success story. Born in a nearby desert village, they built several haveli-style hotels outside the old city walls. When Ajay was younger, he fell in love with a beautiful young neighbor, the daughter of a wealthy businessman. It was impossible for them to date, but they sometimes found a way to meet at the temple or the market, quiet places where they could walk together and be together. The quiet romance went on for a few years, until it came time for their arranged marriage, to partners selected by their families. At first Ajay was miserable–but he learned to accept his situation Years later, he still received an occasional call from his first love and he would tell her, they had to accept their path. One night his former sweetie’s father was a little drunk at a party and told Ajay how he had made a mistake–Ajan was now a successful businessman and he knew his daughter was in love. Ajay was proud of his success, but unhappy: he did not talk about his wife and made of point of saying they did not travel together.

Sometimes a lot can be said over a cup of tea. It was the first of many stories over a little cup of steaming chai.

Indian Street Food Recipes: Chai Masala Recipe

Tea Shop (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India)

Chai or cha is a very common word for tea in Asian and European languages. In India, the chai wallah, or tea vendor, is a fixture at bus and train stations and street stands. Chai wallahs are everywhere in India and their hawking cry “Chai-eeee! Chai-eeee!” never far away.

India was not always a top tea producer. Read the rest of this page »

The Dutch East India Company introduced tea to Europe in the early 1600s, and by the late 1600s, the tea trade monopoly transferred to the British East India Company. The British began growing tea in India in the 1800s, breaking the Chinese tea monopoly. Tea consumption within India remained quite low until the early 20th century, when the beverage was actively promoted by the British-owned Indian Tea Association. This was after the crash of the U.S. economy and London tea prices at the end of the 1920s; until then, the high cost of tea made it a beverage for the Indian elite and was opposed by nationalist leaders, who were especially against labor practices at tea plantations.

The 1903 Tea Cess Bill/Committee provided a marketing fund for tea, which yielded the Tea Marketing Expansion Board in 1933. Instructions for brewing tea were provided via train station advertisements and roaming vehicles decorated with tea kettles and brewing instructions. The marketing was successful: Indian tea consumption doubled in 1930s. In the 1960s, tea became much more accessible, after the CTC (crush, tear, and curl) method increased production and decreased price, resulting in increased consumption.

There are three categories of tea: green (unfermented); Oolong (semi-fermented); and black (fermented). Most tea from India is black tea; two of the most well-known Indian black teas are Assam and Darjeeling. Full-bodied Assam is best for masala chai; Darjeeling is generally too delicate. Green gunpowder tea is reportedly used in Kashmir.

When brewing black tea, use 0ne teaspoon (2 grams) per one cup (1/4 liter) of water. Black tea should be brought to a full, rolling boil (212 degrees F/100 degrees C); remove from heat, cover, steep for approximately ten minutes, strain, and serve.

Munnar Tea Plantations (Munnar, Kerala, India)

Unrefined sugar from sugar cane (jaggery or gud) is commonly used to sweeten tea in India, particularly in rural areas. You can also use Demerara (turbinado), palm sugar, coconut sugar, honey, or agave syrup. Chai masala is often served very sweet (up to three tablespoons for three cups of chai) to help bring out the delicate spices in chai masala, a spice mixture commonly made from ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and pepper. Substitute soy or almond milk for a vegan chai masala.

2012 October 15 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegan Street Food Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Beverage, Brewing black tea, Chaat recipe, Chai recipe, Colonialism, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, Indian tea recipe, International street food, Masala chai recipe, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 2 Comments »

There are Many Paths to Super Deluxe + Jaisalmer, a Magical Spice Road Fort in Rajasthan’s Thar Desert

Indian transit–be thankful for the deity on the dashboard. Be thankful for the incense. Be thankful for the universe’s watchful eye!

Things are not always what they seem. The bus was billed as a super deluxe–alas, far from reality. Super deluxe buses are sometimes called tourist buses, but there was not a tourist in sight. I was the only foreigner and the only woman. Gulp—this solo wandering takes some getting used to. It was however just fine, the perfect instrument for a crazy and colorful journey across the desert, my first quintessential, Indian bus ride.

The conductor hoisted my backpack to the top of the bus, along with a cornucopia of other baggage, caged livestock, etc. I cautiously made my way over immense, burlap-wrapped bales, but no one gave me a second glance—or so it seemed. The smell reminded me of cut hay, the fresh scent of spring, something I still remember from my childhood in rural, northern California. I found my seat and other travelers settled in for bale-side snooze. The horn sounded “Charge!” and we careened through the black, Rajasthani night, through the scrub of the Great Thar Desert–usually in the center of the road and swerving every few minutes to avoid livestock (and universe forbid) cows. I managed a little sleep, even if it seemed that death was around every dark, desert bend.

Jaisalmer Fort at Sunset (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

We arrived safe and sound during the early morning hours, rolling into town during the first light. Jaisalmer Fort rose up from the surrounding desert, its massive yellow sandstone walls crowning Trikuta Hill, a walled complex of temples, palaces, homes, and shops that turn honey gold at dusk. Built in 1156 by the Bhati Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, Jaisalmer, used to be a bustling, trade route fortress, a gateway to silk and spice routes. The antiquated merchant palaces, or havelis, are ornate, sandstone sculptures, intricate desert monuments. Built by wealthy medieval merchants who profited from trade between the Middle East, Persia, and Africa, some havelis are museums and some are still occupied by the ancestors who built them.

But Jaisalmer is in jeopardy. The World Monuments Fund included Jaisalmer Fort in the World Monuments Watch List of 100 Most Endangered Sites in 1996, 1998, and 2000. Increased tourism and population means that over 120 liters per person are piped into the fort each day, at least 12 times the amount originally used 20 years ago. Water seeps through decaying drains and soaks the fortress foundations, which results in cracks and instability–and collapsed buildings. Preservation organizations strongly recommend staying outside the medieval walls to help decrease the impact on the fragile architecture.

Sixteenth Century Palace of the Maharawal, the Ruler of Rajasthan (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

Inside Jaisalmer Fort (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

Jaisalmer Fort (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

Jaisalmer Women (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

Street Outside the Walled City (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

Inside the Walled City (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

Street Outside the Walled City (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India)

2012 October 8 | Categories: India--Rajasthan, Rajasthan--Jaisalmer, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Antiquities, Architecture, Bus, Bus ride, Independent travel for women, India, Jaisalmer, Jaisalmer Fort, Monument, Photographs, Preservation, Rajasthan, Silk Route, Solo female travel, Spice Route, Transportation, Travel in India, Women | 2 Comments »

Indian Street Food Recipes: Dal Makhani Recipe (Buttery Indian Lentil Soup)

Indian Street Food Recipes: Dal Makhani Recipe (Buttery Indian Lentil Soup)

All this talk of wandering brings me to my Indian comfort food, dal (or dhal, dahl, or daal).

Dal and roti (Kaza, Himachal Pradesh, India)

We often think of dal as lentil soup, but it means dried legumes or pulses (lentils, beans, or peas), split, with or without skins. It is a staple throughout the Indian subcontinent, including Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh.

There are probably as many versions of dal as there are Indian pilgrimage sites. Spicy sambar is a staple in the south, where it is served with rice and vegetables or with griddle-baked, wheat, flat-bread, roti, in the north. It is my go-to comfort food—and has been since my twenty-something vegetarian days. You can almost always find dal in dhabas, or simple, roadside stands and was something I could always order, even with minimal language skills and at the most basic establishment. I ate a lot of dal.

It is said dal makhani originated in Punjab. As the Punjabi population emigrated throughout India and the world, many Punjabi immigrants opened restaurants to support their families. The recipe traveled with them.

Dal (and other soups and curries) are traditionally cooked in a handi, a round, wide cooking pot with a tight lid. Handi, degchi, pateela, and degs all belong to the same family of pots. They are traditionally made of brass or copper, although stainless steel and aluminum have become very common (and more economical). The deg is larger than the handi.

Dal makhani is made of black gram or black, whole lentils (urad dal) and red kidney beans (rajma). Dal bukhara (or sabut urad, maah, whole black gram, or kali dal) is also made with black, whole urad, but does not have kidney beans.

Serve dal with bread (parathas, chapatis, roti, or naan), or rice. The flavor is even better after a day or two in the refrigerator! This version has less butter than the traditional version, but you can add more, if desired.
Read the rest of this page »

Yield:

4 servings (6 cups/1.5 liters)

Ingredients:

1-1/2 cup (325 grams) whole black lentils (urad dal)

3 tablespoons (40 grams) red kidney beans (rajma)

1-1/2 tablespoons (18 grams) ginger paste (see note)

1-1/2 tablespoons (18 grams) garlic paste (see note)

1/2 cup (120 milliliters) tomato purée (1 4-ounce can)

1 teaspoon (3 grams) red chili powder

3 tablespoons (42 grams) (about 1/2 stick) ghee or clarified butter, melted (see note)

1/2 cup light cream (120 milliliters)

Salt, to taste (approximately 1 tablespoon/6 grams)

Preparation:

Pick and rinse the lentils, removing stones and non-lentils. Cover the lentils with about 6 cups (1.5 liters) water. Rinse the kidney beans and add to the lentils, and soak overnight (or minimum of 4 hours).
Drain and rinse lentils and kidney beans.
Put lentils and kidney beans in a medium saucepan and add 6 cups (1.5 liters) of water. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer, and cover. Cook until about 2/3 of the liquid has evaporated and the lentils are soft (about 15 minutes).
Gently crush the half the lentils against the side of the saucepan with a spoon.
Add the ginger paste, garlic paste, tomato purée, red chili powder, and clarified butter, stirring to combine.
Cook over medium heat until thick (about 45 minutes).
Add cream and butter, stir, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes.
Add salt and adjust the seasoning.

Note:

Ginger and Garlic Paste:

You do not need to buy ginger or garlic paste; it is very easy to make and has much better flavor (and fewer preservatives) than commercial pastes. Peel and mince the ginger or garlic, and then sprinkle with a small amount of salt. Turn your chef’s knife at an angle and press the edge across the ginger or garlic until it is a smooth paste.

Clarified Butter:

Cut unsalted butter into pieces and melt over medium-low heat. Simmer until the white foam, or casein, starts to rise to the surface; the other milk protein, whey, will settle to the bottom. In between is the butterfat, the clarified part of the butter. You can skim the casein as it rises to the surface, but I find it easier to pour the melted butter into a narrow, clear container (such as a liquid measuring cup), and refrigerate until solid. Scrape the casein from the surface, and then remove the middle layer of butterfat. The bottom layer, the small amount of liquid whey, can be discarded.

2012 October 1 | Categories: Food, Indian Street Food, Indian Street Food, International Street Food, Recipes, Vegetarian Street Food, Vegetarian Street Food Recipes | Tags: Chaat recipe, Daal recipe, Dahl recipe, Dal makhani recipe, Dal recipe, Dhal recipe, Fried street food, Indian cuisine, Indian street food, Indian street food blog, Indian street food recipes, International street food, Lentil soup recip, Photographs, Potato recipe, Recipe, Snack recipe, Soup recipe, Street food, Street food guide, Street food recipes, Vegan Indian chaat, Vegan Indian recipes, Vegan Indian snacks, Vegan Indian street food recipes, Vegan street food, Vegetarian Indian chaat, Vegetarian Indian recipes, Vegetarian Indian snacks, Vegetarian Indian street food recipes, Vegetarian street food | 3 Comments »

Pushkar Camel Festival, Rajasthan, India + Full Moon Festival. Right Place at the Right Time: My Soul, Etc. Needs a Good Scrubbing

Once upon a time, Creator Lord Brahma dropped a lotus flower on earth to kill a demon. Three petals landed, and water magically appeared in the desert, forming small lakes. On the banks of the largest one, Pushkar Lake, Brahma gathered the entire Hindu pantheon, 900,000 celestial beings. During the full moon festival, the Kartik Purnima full moon, the waters are believed to cleanse the soul of all impurities.

Pushkar Lake (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

300,000 pilgrims and tourists. 25,000 camels. 10,000 cows. It is billed as the largest tribal festival in India and the only one of its kind in the world. Rural residents converge on tiny Pushkar with camels and cattle for a week of trading, shopping, racing, and festivities, feeling flush at the end of the agricultural season. Traders, pilgrims, sadhus (holy men), villagers, musicians, snake charmers, acrobats, and travelers all crowd the streets, carnival, and bazaar, an absolutely insane consumer-fest, stalls filled with camel ornaments, jewelry, clothing, fabric, etc. There is a carnival, complete with ferris wheel.

Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

It is a wildly overwhelming, a beautiful blend of tribal color and turbans, dust, animals, sweat, and more dust. And then comes the chanting, incense, and pilgrims around the sacred lake.

Snake charmers at the Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Eight-hour, second class, non-AC overnight train (200 Rs or $5). No need for air-conditioning: I used the sleeping bag!

Day 3. This was my introduction to India.

Camel gear for sale at the Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Shopping at the Pushkar Camel Fair (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

2012 September 24 | Categories: India--Rajasthan, Rajasthan--Pushkar, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Bazaar, Brahma, Camels, Independent travel for women, India, Kartik Purnima, Market, Photographs, Pilgrimage, Pushkar, Pushkar Camel Festival, Pushkar Camel Mela, Pushkar Lake, Rajasthan, Sadhu, Shopping, Snake charmers, Solo female travel, Travel in India | Leave A Comment »

Pushkar, Rajasthan, India: Camels, Ferris Wheels, and Monkeys, Oh My. Be Careful of the Rush?

Pushkar is one of the five sacred pilgrimage sites, or dhams, for devout Hindus. So sacred, in fact, that the town is pure vegetarian (no eggs or dairy). No alcohol is served.

Dawn and pilgrims at Pushkar Lake (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

I woke up to chanting and temple sounds; it was around 4 am. The dark air was cold and heavy with incense from the temple next door, and the sky was still black. I quietly made my way out of my simple guest house; the owner’s son, Nihar, was already awake. As I left, he cautioned me, “Be careful out there.” “Why?” I asked…”Theft?” “No, the rush. It can crush you.”

Sadhu by Lake Pushkar (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Pushkar Camel Festival (Pushkar, Rajasthan, India)

Thousands of pilgrims made their way around the lake. The sun slowly colored the early morning hours. Or was it the subtle glow of sacred saffron from the sadhu robes? Saffron signifies the quest for light and sacrifice (as well as abstinence), and it was everywhere. A little necklace of lights surrounded the lake, I think from the bathing ghats. There are 52 ghats, where pilgrims bathe in the sacred waters. Gandhi’s ashes were scattered at Gau Ghat, Brahma bathed at Brahma Ghat, and Vishnu appeared as a boar at Varah Ghat. As the sun rose over lake, thousands of pilgrims submerged themselves in the sacred water.

I did not want to intrude. I was unsure what to do—or should do. What was appropriate? It seemed to feel right to move with the crowd. I followed the lead and took off my shoes, and joined the pilgrims, silently circling the lake.

It is reported that Pushkar used to have 500 temples, but many were destroyed under the rule of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (1658-1707). Jagatpita Brahma Mandir is one of the few Brahma temples in the world. And it was packed. I bought a few offerings for Brahma and was swept along with the masses to toss marigolds and sweets in the temple.

Then wall to wall people all the way to the mela grounds, propelled by the crushing crowds and surrounded by swirls of dust. I pulled my shawl over my head and moved with the ebb and flow (really the flow!) Every now and then I paused to rest; I had wordless exchanges with little girls, emphatically wiping my brow. They giggled at my expression and my drama. I was fairly incognito with my shawl and shalwar kameez, just another carnival attendee. Or at least that is what I wanted to believe.

And then the pilgrims, camels, and tourists left, packing up their trinkets, sugar care, and glamorous camel gear. It was incredible: Pushkar went back to being a sleepy little town.

And I was moving on, too: I had a night bus (10 pm-9 am) to Jaisalmer in the Thar Desert, near the Pakistan border. Two jolly fellows, young, renegade lawyers from San Francisco, shared my bus stop—really a café–outside town. They were fresh from a few weeks in Dharamsala (land of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan exile), doing a lot of yoga and meditation. The yoga did not lower their stress level and the Pushkar crowds had really done a number on them. They were a little SoCal in accent and showed me the video they took of the crowd. “They kept mobbing us: I felt like Michael Jackson!” “Dude, you need to You Tube that video to me…”

And oddly enough, one of them is lighthearted, and what is this….my goodness, flirtatious? I cannot remember the last time anyone flirted with me.

It is day 5.

2012 September 17 | Categories: India--Rajasthan, Rajasthan--Pushkar, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Carnival, Festival, Independent travel for women, India, Mela, Photographs, Pilgrims, Pushkar, Pushkar Camel Festival, Pushkar Camel Mela, Rajasthan, Solo female travel, Travel in India | Leave A Comment »

What Have I Done? Delhi, India: Beep-Beep, Mughals, and a Shalwar Kameez

Street scene (Delhi, India)

My first Indian breakfast, aloo paratha (fried bread with potato) and mango lassi (yogurt shake). Tipico, but still one of my favorite ways to start the day!

Errands first. First stop: the train station to book a ticket. Note to self; closed shoes (no sandals, please) on Delhi streets. Second stop: Palika Bazaar for a shawl, then my first auto rickshaw (auto or tuk tuk) ride to Old Delhi for some obligatory sightseeing.

Street scene (Delhi, India)

A tuk tuk is like a small golf cart (sort of a tin can on three wheels), which speeds fearlessly through the sea of beeping scooters, auto and bike rickshaws, cars, and buses. My photos do not capture the chaos or insanity of the street scene and traffic. It was my first time submitting to the mercies of the Indian transportation universe. There is a reason most tuk tuks, buses, and taxis have a deity on the dashboard, along with some burning incense.

Constant, constant honking. There’s the warning “Do you see me?” beep, the “Lookout, I’m here!” beep, and the (I think) “Just for the heck of it, I have a horn” beep. Cacophonic Symphony of Beep-Beeps in D Major.

First obligatory sightseeing stop: 17^th century Red Fort (1639-1648) or Lal Qil’ah. It was built by Shah J ahan, whose 30-year reign is considered the Mughal Golden Age, particularly for Mughal architecture. Yes, the Shah Jahan of Taj Mahal fame. Lal Qil’ah was the home of Mughal emperors and capital of the Mughal Empire until 1857, until they were bounced out by the British.
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Second sightseeing stop: Jama Masjid (1644-1658), India’s largest and best known mosque. Also commissioned by Shah Jahan, Jama Masjid was built by a workforce of 5000. I am not a stranger to mosques; I spent a lot of time wandering Umayyad, etc. monuments during my s

tudent days in the Middle East. I know they are a common gathering place for those in need (at least this is true in Egypt).

Islam has a tradition of alms giving at mosques, but I had never seen anything like this. The scene on the north entrance of Jama Masjid was beyond heart breaking: way, way too many in need, all the way up the steps. Picture the worse crippled bodies pulling themselves along by whatever means possible; tiny, tiny children; and amputees. Mother Teresa’s orphanage is not far from here. It was the India of the mind’s eye, and I wondered how I could find a way to handle it, or even begin to process it–or the privilege I had, just by being born into my place and time.

Errand 3: I wandered Chatta Chowk, the immense bazaar in Old Delhi, in search of a shalwar kameez. The shalwar kameez is a long tunic worn over baggy, pajama-like trousers; I read on the travel boards that it can minimize some hassle for solo female travelers, plus they are comfy and practical. But wall to wall people and way too many options for this gringa!

Sudden question: what’s an appropriate color for my shalwar kameez? I was wearing my wedding ring (or rather, a cheap substitute from Filene’s Basement). What projects respectability for a solo, married gal out on the road? But it’s India—I did not want to be dowdy old frump in a sea of color. But color carries meaning—and I was clueless about the nuances. Left to my own devices at home, I sometimes shake up my predominately black wardrobe with shades of drab neutrals. I settle on what I hope is neutral burgundy, a color that projects my middle-aged, marital status. The eager shopkeeper assured me it was a fine choice—although I knew she wanted to close the sale.

I settled into a quiet evening at the rooftop restaurant at my guesthouse; it is a relatively common feature, even for budget places. The candles, quiet, veggie makhani, and roti smoothed the uneven edges from a very ragged day. Butter will do that–and it turns out makhani just means with butter. I was right in the middle of the city, but I could not believe how few lights there were.

A brass band passed by on the street below; it was a groom’s wedding procession. The groom was riding a horse and a festive crowd was in hot pursuit. The waiter noted that the groom looked miserable, but told me it is wedding season. The horoscopes and stars were in alignment, and monsoon had passed. He said there would be a lot of weddings.

2012 September 10 | Categories: India--Delhi, Solo Female Independent Travel, Travel--India | Tags: Aloo paratha recipe, Auto rickshaw, Bazaar, Bicycle rickshaw, Chatta Chowk, Delhi, Forts, Independent travel for women, India, Jama Masjid, Lal Qil'ah, Lassi, Market, Mosques, Mughal architecture, Mughal Empire, Noise, Photographs, Poverty, Red Fort, Rickshaw, Salwaar kameez, Shah Jahan (1592-1666), Shalwaar kameez, Solo female travel, Traffic, Travel in India, Tuk tuk, Wedding | 2 Comments »

Career Change, Midlife Crisis, and Camels (or Why Wander on This Walkabout?)

We lived in the Pacific Northwest when Gwen died. I was laid off from a fabulously creative and upwardly mobile job in information management.

Yes. Time for a change.

We moved back to Massachusetts, where I worked with my husband, David, on a single-family renovation. It worked for a couple months—before therapy went out the window. I wanted to go to India for my 40^th birthday (I know, cliché!), but the cross-country move and monsoon did not cooperate. I was still underemployed, so it was now or never. Age 41 + backpack.

“I quit. I’m going to India.”

I looked at my first blog last night, the first time in a long while. Incredible: Walkabout I started just a few years ago. It seems like a lifetime between that wander and now, but that wander shaped my world view forever. I was determined to get to the Pushkar Camel Mela in Rajasthan, India, the biggest agricultural festival in Asia—which happened to coincide with the American Thanksgiving. Besides wanting to walk the earth for three months, I was ditching Thanksgiving for a big camel fair. In India. I was not winning points in the good spouse department.

But things were not going so well. As I like to remind folks, there is a reason you leave with a backpack.

It sometimes seems like too much. I was too fortunate. Too crazy? Too 40-something? Too midlife crisis?

And India…well, India cannot be explained. I had heard more than one story about backpackers flying to Delhi and going right back to the airport. Other people told me India overwhelms all—all!—of the senses and emotions. That it is indescribable and immense (in all senses of the word)—and then you want to go back. Many times. All so true!

As I re-anchor in the culinary field, I am trying to connect with what seems like a crazy mix of culinary and travel memories. So, some remembering, some recipes, lots of photographs, some pilgrim ponderings, and trying to understand how I got from here to there. Some international and some local adventures. Not necessarily in chronological order. And always lots of food. And photos.

And trying to hatch a plan for Walkabout III.

2012 September 3 | Categories: Midlife crisis | Tags: Backpacker, Career change, Female backpacker, Independent travel for women, India, Midlife crisis, Solo female traveler, Women | Leave A Comment »

How to Dodge Breast Cancer and the Grim Reaper/Death (or a Solo, Female, Middle Aged Backpacker in India with Gypsy Blood)

My sister died of breast cancer.

I know; it happens a lot. The National Institute of Health estimates that 12% of all U.S. women will be diagnosed with breast cancer at some time in their lives. I have some strong opinions about that statistic, but I will spare you my political and nutritional world views so early in the game.

But Gwen was too young. She was 37.

Needless to say, this caused a major life reassessment. I turned everything upside down: career, marriage, love—or rather, the assumed, substitute pleasures.

During my 20s, my late mom called me pilgrim. Silly, yes, but she knew my path: überly—and laughably—politically correct, wind in the hair, and oh so vegetarian. I will admit now (at age 45), I was insufferable. I had all the answers! However, mom used to say I was a lot more entertaining back in the day. Apparently when I did what I was supposed to and got all downtown and career, I was a lot less interesting.

Go figure.

Mom died too young, as well, age 62. My father, not so much—in our family, the good definitely died young. Dad was my least favorite parent, but his gypsy blood (he was a truck driver and wanderer) is part of me. Along with the DNA/cancer thing, the bastard.

So, a number of things lead to Walkabout I. Gwen’s immense love for life: she lived boldly and without regrets. Quite honestly, fear that I might be next: nothing like seeing the grim reaper in the rear view mirror as a catalyst for change, eh? Remembering my 20-something pilgrim self and mom’s words. And of course, Daddy dearest and the love of a good road trip.

All I know is we do not know how long we have. Or rather, that is a lesson I am trying to learn.

It was time for a new path and to see what was around the bend.

2012 August 27 | Categories: Midlife crisis | Tags: Backpacker, Breast cancer, Death, Female backpacker, Follow your heart, Gypsy blood, Independent travel for women, Middle-age, Midlife crisis, Solo female travel, Solo female travel blog, Wanderlust, Women | 2 Comments »

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